A TREATISE 



ON 

AN IMPROVED MODE OF CULTIVATING 

THE 

CUCUMBER AND MELON, 

SO AS TO PRODUCE 

EARLY MELONS AND CUCUMBERS ALL THE YEAR, 

„ ' * WITH LESS TROUBLE AND EXPENSE THAN BY THE METHODS 
USUALLY PRACTISED. 

WITH 

DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING AND FORCING ASPARAGUS 
AND SEA-KALE; 

AND FOR DESTROYING WOOD-LICE. 



BY GEORGE MILLS, 

GARDENER TO THE BARONESS DE ROTHSCHILD^ AT GUNNERS8URV PARK, 
MIDDLESEX. 



SECOND EDITION. 

WITH A DESCRIPTIVE PLATE, AND SOME ADDITIONAL OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING 
CUCUMBERS DURING THE SEASONS OF 1841 & 1842. 



LONDON: 

WILLIAM SMITH, 113, FLEET STREET. 



LONDON : 

BRADBURY AND EVANS , PRINTERS, WHTTEFRIARS. 



\ 



TO THE 

BARONESS DE ROTHSCHILD, 

107, PICCADILLY. 

Madam : 

Your great kindness in patronising my work on 
Gardening wi\\, I trust, be always remembered by me 
with gratitude and thankfulness. Under your kind 
patronage the first edition has been well received, and 
a second edition is now publishing, which, under con- 
tinuance of your Ladyship's kind patronage, will doubtless 
be received as it deserves by a generous and discerning 
public. 

With feelings of respect and gratitude, I remain, 
Your Ladyship's 
Much Obliged Humble Servant, 

GEORGE MILLS. 



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 



The very rapid sale of the first edition of my 
work cannot fail to be highly satisfactory to me, 
thereby proving that the public had confidence in 
me, and which confidence I trust I have not for- 
feited, as I therein gave faithfully my practice in the 
plainest manner possible. I much regret not having 
given a descriptive plate, but at the time I thought 
it unnecessary: it will now be added to the Second 
Edition, and also faithful extracts from my note-book, 
on forcing Cucumbers from January to February 
inclusive, which will I trust be found useful as a 
reference; and I have the satisfaction of knowing 
that any person that will follow the directions given 
in my book will succeed with much less trouble than 
with any other system with which I am acquainted. 

GEORGE MILLS. 

OBSERVATIONS on forcing Cucumbers last season, from 
December to February, in my improved pit. 

1841. Dec. 21st— Heat in pit this morning at uncovering, 
68° ; plants were quite moist ; I used a little too much water 
last night, but the shortest day was sunny, and the plants got 
dry in the day ; a little water was given over the back hot-air 
chamber only, and caused a line steam to rise, which filled 



VI 



OBSERVATION'S. 



the pit ; the heat was 65° — there were 2° frost ; little air 
could be given ; it was a wind frost ; the linings are up. to the 
curb in front, and within one foot of it at the back : covering, 
a single mat only. 

Dec. 22nd— 2° frost this morning, rose 4° above zero : still 
it has been a raw, cold, and dull day ; heat this morning in 
pit 68° ; the plants were moist and looked well, but little air 
could be given to pit to-day ; heat did not reach more than 70-'. 
No water was given to-day, as the plants did not get dry- : a 
little air is given every night at 6 o'clock, and looked to at 
10, and regulated according to the weather. 

Dec. 23rd. — Heat this morning 70-. with a little air all night, 
and a single mat covering ; it appears to be just the heat 
required to cause fruit to swell at this season ; measured two 
finite 8^ inches each, and verv handsome. 

Dec. 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th.— Heat 68 to 70 at nigh: : 
covering a single mat ; 'air as usual. 

Dec. 28th. — Cut first brace of fruit this day. very handsome. 

Dec. 30th. — Dull mild day,heat in pit at uncovering 72- : some 
of the plants were dry and others moist ; where dry, a little 
water was given ; they had much air during the day, and a 
little water was given at 4 o'clock, all over the leaves, and 
hot-air chambers. 

Dec. 31st. — Fine mild dull day ; heat this morning 70 : • 
got dry, and the flues were watered all round the pit, and it 
filled it with steam ; plants seem to enjoy it much. 

1842. Jan. 1st. — Plants in fine state this morning, heat 
70° ; the day was dry and mild ; one inch of air was given, and 
a little water on the hot-air chambers, or flues, at 4 o'clock in 
the afternoon. 

Jan. 2nd and 3rd. — Cold and frosty, east wind ; heat 68° ; 
watered round on the flues at 4 o'clock, plenty of steam, and 
plants looked well. 

Jan. 4th. — Heat 64°, mercury 10° below zero ; little sun in 
the day, and plants got dry ; water was given round the hot- 
air chambers. 

Jan. 5th and 6th. — Heat in pits, at uncovering time 73° 
each day ; plants in fine state ; a little water given over the 
hot-air chambers filled the pit with steam ; cold east wind, but 
little ail 1 could be given ; water was sprinkled over the back 
hot-air chamber at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. 

Jan. 8th, 9th, and 1.0th. — Three days have been dull, damp 
and cold ; but little water was used ; once a day, sprinkled on 
the hot-air chambers ; heat 70° to 74-'. 

Jan. 13th. — It has snowed the whole day, heat 68° ; the pit 
was covered with hay and no water given, and but little air. 



Jem. 14th.— Soilless day . heat 71° ; a tittle water was given 
at 4 o'clock. 

Jam,, loth. — Little sunshine, heat this morning 7 5 1} : water 
at 4 as usual. 

Jam. 16th. — Heat this morning 72°. plants m a fine slate, 
cansed by the little snnshine vesterdav ; a little water at 4 
o'clock. * 

Jan. 17th. — Heat 7*2° ; plants good ; a little water sprinkled 
over the hot-air chambers once a day. unless the heat is very 
strong, is better than more. I wish to see the plants a little 
moist in the morning, but a lodgement of damp on them is 
had, which is caosed by want of heat and air ; if short of heat 
give no Ttater — but it is bad to ce snort of heat for any length 
of time ; if the flower at the point of the fruit damps off before 
the fruit is well formed it never makes a good fruit. I attach 
great importance to night heat, air, and moisture : too much 
night heat causes the fruit blossoms to open prematurely, and 
?uch fruit never swells kindly ; toe iimle heat causes the 
blossoms to damp off, and then the fruit never swells ; a 
fitronr; heat in the front lining is a?:od. 

Jan. 13th. — The day dull and eold. _ ' : : frost : night and day 
heat 7*2° ; plants seem to en ; oy it : :: appears to he just ~hat 
they like : too much water b bad ; if at coverinz-up time the 
heat is 70° well ; it will increase 3? or 4* before the morning, 
with a little air at each light and a sitter mat : "raaata. 
which is all that ?h :ui i be used, unless meat necessity from 
extreme bad weather ; 74° is a fine heat in the morning when 
the pits are uncovered. 

Jan. 19th — Five days and no sunshine : dark with little 
frost ; fruit has swelled slowly at the expense of the plants ; 
I never witnessed slower ^■■■Ifc 

Jan. 20th. -21st. and -2*2nd.— Weather dull; young fruit 
seems to require a little sunshine to start tit eta after at ; ~eraaaj : 
once started they will swell in dull weather. 

J.: -I. Cord. — Sun ?h:ue to-day a fe~ it; tars, ha- the ^aaai 
was excessively cold : a little extra cc^eraaar. ~as used, aaaa :ut 
little water rjven : 11' of frost on the morning of the 24th. 
the coldest night up to this time. 

Jan. 24th. — Heat this morning 75P ; great improvement in 
the plants from the few hours' sun yesterday : the sun has 
shone out the whole da . , heat up to -? v - to-day : the mercury- 
has been eel: — zero the whole day in the shade ; the plants 
had one inch of air at each light, and a small pot of water 
was given to each light over plants and hot-air chambers. 

Jan a.5th. — There was a fall of sat: - in the rharht : heat in pit 
at 10 at night was 75° ; a little more air was given ; there was 



viii 



OBSERVATIONS. 



4° frost ; the wind blew a gale about two in the morning, and 
part of the air was taken off ; heat this morning 72° ; a 
little sunshine to-day, and a little water was given just before 
covering up. 

Jan. 26th and 27th. — Heat each morning 74° ; a little sun- 
shine each day ; a little water sprinkled on the hot-air cham- 
bers before covering up. 

Jan. 28th. — Heat this morning 80° ; sunny day ; water was 
given all over the plants ; fruit swelling fast. 

Jan. 29th. — Heat 75°, day mild ; one inch of air at each 
light all day, a little water before covering up. 

Jan. 30th and 31st. — Heat each morning 76° ; plants 
growing fast and swelling their fruit fine ; the season is so 
changed by the increase of light that there is comparatively 
little difficulty ; still they require great attention, and with 
that they will now make good progress. 

Feb. 1st. — Heat at uncovering-time 74° ; there is good 
bottom-heat ; the back linings are one foot below the curb, 
the front lining up to the curb ; covering a single mat only ; 
no other covering ought to be required. 

Feb. 2nd and 3rd. — Heat each morning at 9 o'clock 75° ; 
with half an inch Of air all night, calm and mild ; a little water 
was given each day over plants and hot chambers. 

Feb. 4th. — Heat this morning 80° ; it was too much ; 74° 
would have been better ; a little water was given and air ; it 
was a calm mild morning. 

Feb. 5th and 6th. — Heat each morning 74° ; a little water 
given each day just before covering up at night. 

. Feb. 7th, 8th, and 9th. — Heat each morning 74° ; a little 
water was given each day just before covering-up time ; front 
linings up to the curb, back one foot below ; covering a single 
mat only ; little sunshine ; fruit swells very fast. 

Feb. 10th and 11th. — Heat each morning 74° ; a little 
water was given all over plants and flues at one o'clock each 
day. i 

Feb. 12th, 13th, and to the 21st.— The heat and treatment 
the same as above ; and as the strength of sun increases the 
linings are to be lowered, observing always to keep a good 
bottom-heat. 

GEORGE MILLS. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. PAGE 
I. — ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER UNDER 

HAND-GLASSES 1 

II. — ON THE CULTIVATION OF CUCUMBERS ON COM- 
MON DUNG BEDS WITH ORDINARY FRAMES . 11 

III. — CULTIVATION OF THE CUCUMBER IN THE PINE- 

HOUSE IN THE WINTER .... 44 

IV. — ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER UPON AN 

IMPROVED PIT SYSTEM, WHEREBY FRUIT 
MAY BE PRODUCED EVERY MONTH OF THE 
YEAR WITH EASE AND CERTAINTY . . 47 

V. — ON THE GROWTH OF THE MELON UNDER HAND- 
GLASSES WITHOUT THE AID OF FERMENTING 
MATERIALS 67 

VI. THE CULTURE OF THE MELON ON DUNG BEDS . 76 



VII. — GROWTH OF MELONS IN PITS, AND TRAINING 

THE PLANTS ON THE TRELLIS ... 81 



yiii , CONTENTS. 

CHAP. PAGE 

¥111.— ON THE GROWTH OF ASPARAGUS * . . 87 

IX. — ON FORCING ASPARAGUS „ . . . 90 

X.— -FRAME-FORCING OF ASPARAGUS , . . . 95 

XI. ON RAISING ASPARAGUS PLANTS 97 

XII. THE CULTIVATION OF SEA-KALE . . . . 98 

XIII.- — ON THE DESTRUCTION OF WOOD-LICE . „ 101 



/ 



LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 



M 



The Baroness De Rothschild 
The Rt. Hon. the Lord deTabley, 
1 he Rt. Hon. C. S. Lefevre, M.P 
The Hon. H. Legge 
The Hon. R. Curzon 
W. Wilshere, Esq. M 
T. W. Bramston, Esq 
Colonel Croft 
J. F. Leathes, Esq. 

E. Leathes, Esq. 
John Penrice, Esq. . 
T. Lister Parker, Esq. 
0. Steward, Esq. 
John Fowler, Esq. . 
Richard Ferrier, Esq. 

F. Farr, Esq. . . 

A. Steward, Esq. 
S. Palmer, Esq. 
W. Garforth, Esq. 
W. D. Palmer, Esq. 

B. Dowson, Esq. 

C. Liveing, Esq. 
W. Maclean, Esq. 
Rev. F. Leathes 
Timothy Steward, Esq 
Rev. T. G. F. Howes 
W. N. Wickham, Esq 
Rev. G. Morwood 

G. O. Reilly, Esq. 
Rev. T. Newton . 

— C. W. Goodchild 
W. Goodchild, Esq. 
Robert Hills, Esq. . 
Dr. Lindley .... 
John Braithwaite, Esq. C.E. 



NO. OF 

ADDRESS. 

• COPIES. 

Gunnershury Park, Middlx. 50 
Tabley House, Cheshire . 
Hickfield, Hants . . . 
Marsh Gate, Richmond . 
Parham Park, Sussex 
Hitchen, Herts . . '. 
Skreens, Essex . . . 
Stillington Hall, York . 
Herringfleet Hall, Suffolk 
Normanstone, Suffolk 
Witton House, Norfolk . 
Knutsford, Cheshire . . 
Blundestone House, Suffolk 
Gunton House, Suffolk . 
Burgh Castle, Suffolk . 

Beccles 

Southtown, Suffolk . . 
Great Yarmouth, Norfolk 
Wiganthorpe, York 
Shrubland Cottage, Suffolk 
Great Yarmouth, Norfolk 
Denmark Hill, Camberwell 

Ditto, Ditto, 
Reedham, Norfolk . 
Heigham Lodge, Norwich 
Belton, Suffolk . . . 
Winchester . ... 
Cleveland, York . . . 
Old Castle, Ireland . . 
Coxwould,Easingwould,Yor 
Sutton Valence, Kent 
East Tilbury, Essex . . 
Colne Park, Essex . . 
Turnham Green .... 2 
Hare Hall, Essex ... 1 



X 



LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 



NO. OF 

NAME. ADDRESS. 

COPIES 

John Sayers Bell, Esq. . . . Gorleston, Suffolk ... 1 
S. Price Edwards, Esq. . . . Browston Hall, Suffolk . 

Thomas Lawrence, Esq. . . . Brecon 

John Powell, Esq Ditto 

Rev. G. F. Nicholas .... Toft Monks, Suffolk . . 

A. Cook, Esq Ipswich, Suffolk . 

W. P. M auger, Esq Lower Clapton 

Charles Morris, Esq. .... Bracon Lodge, Norwich . 

William Chase, Esq Norwich 

Henry Reeve, Esq Low 7 estoft . . . . . 

Rev. C. Codd Letheringsett, Norfolk . 

Mrs. Dix ........ Fordham, Cambridgeshire 

Mrs. General Andrews . . . Vellore, Bath .... 

George Teed, Esq Chancery Lane, London 

A. Tompson, Esq. . . Belton, Suffolk . . 

W. Gwynn, Esq Long Stratton, Norfolk . 

G. Goldsmith, Esq Watford 

E. Norton, Esq.j Lowestoft, Suffolk . . 

S. Grainger, Esq Blackheath 

William Fifield, Esq. . . . Broseley, Salop . . . 

Geo. Potts, Esq Ditto, Ditto, . . 

John Negus, Esq Crimplesham, Norfolk . 

F. Parnell, Esq Weymouth .... 

T. R. Marne, Esq Rushett, Kent . . . 

B. Hickling, Esq Wolverhampton . . . 

J. Hardy, Esq Croome, Worcester . . 

A. Gray, Esq . Wheatley, Oxon ... 

Rev. J. Bevan Broseley, Salop . 

C. Sayers, Esq. ...... Southtown, Suffolk . 

J. Moodv, Esq Great Yarmouth, Norfolk 

Rev. T. Fowler . ... Belton, Suffolk . . . 
Mr. Charles Moore .... Yarmouth, Norfolk . . 

■ — Gibson, Gardener to the . . Queen Dowager, Bushy 

— A. Thrower . . • . . Southtown, Suffolk . . 

— Carton, Gardener to . the Duke of Northumberland 

— Garrod, Gardener . . . . Kesgrave Hall, Suffolk 

— Daniels, Gardener .... Mr. Leatherhead, Surrey 

— Smith, Gardener to . . Shackle, Esq. Hammersmith 

— C. Lidgard Hammersmith . 

— Millar, Gardener .... Sheen, Surrey . 



Young, Nurseryman . . . Epsom 
E. Parkins, Nurseryman . . Leamington 
Thomson, Gardener . . . Gunnersbury 
Lumsden, do. ... Twickenham 



LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 



Si 



NO. OF 

NAME. ADDRESS. 

COPIES. 

Mr. Gundry, do. . . . Richmond 1 

— Wilshere, do. ... do, 1 

— Jackson, Nurseryman . . Kingston 6 

— Henderson, do. ... Pine Apple Place, Middlesex 6 

— Atlee, Gardener .... Vauxhall . . . . . .2 

Messrs. Rooke & Clarke, Under Gardeners ...... 2 

Lee & Co. j Nurserymen . Hammersmith .... 6 

Mr. D. Stewart . • . . . . Stradsett Hall, Norfolk . . 2 

— G. Dunklin do. do. . 

— Judd, Gardener .... East Barnet, Middlesex . . 

— Ingle, do. .... do. do. 

— W. Morris, do Chevening, Kent .... 

— Ronolds, Nurseryman . . Brentford, Middlesex 

— Over, Gardener .... Isleworth ...... 

— Russell, do Tumham Green . . 

— Doram do Gunnersbury 

— Andrews, do. . . . . . Lynn Regis, Norfolk . 

— Turnbull, Gardener . . . East Barnet 

— G. Hall, do Basingstoke, Hants . 

— M'Colloab,do Richmond, Surrey 

— Smithers, do Ealing 

— J. Arnell, ...... Living Bridge, York . 

— Waters . Coventry ...... 

— Knight, Nurseryman . . . King's Road 

— Corbett, Gardener .... Pencarrow, near Bodmin, 

Cornwall 

— Spray Up. Park, Petersfield, Hants 

— E. Roadem, Gardener . . Gunnersbury 

— T. Mallison, do. . . Cleremont 

— R. Henbrey, jun. Florist and Seedsman, Croydon . 

— Massey, Gardener to the Hon. W. B. Baring, M.P. Croydon 

— Bond, Gardener .... Powis Castle, Salop . 

— B. Fielder Forty Hill, Enfield . . . 

— W. Bradley, Gardener . . East Barnet 

— W. Western, do. ... Chertsey, Surrey .... 

— Pavey Enfield' 

— W. Stannard, Gardener . . Herringfleet Hall, Suffolk . 

— J. Stannard, do. . . Witton House, Norfolk . . 

— Margetson, do. . . Yarmouth, Norfolk . . . 
Messrs. Fenn & Laws, Nurserymen Beccles, Suffolk .... 
Wm. Tewart, Esq. . Tilmouth Park, near Coldstream, N.B. 
Mr. J. B. Spence, Seedsman, &c. Gray's Row, Darlington 

— J. Seymour, Kitchen Gardener to the Countess of Bridge water 

— J. Southwood, Gardener . . Barnstable, Devon . . 

— T. White, do. . . Isleworth ...... 



Xll 



LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 



NO. OF 
COPIFS. 



Mr. T. White, Gardener 

— R. Leek, do. 

— H. Hillmott, do. 

— P. Ryan, do. 

— P. Kennedy, do. 

— J. Cady, do. 

— P. Kelly M'Craith 

— C. Ryan, Gardener 

— S. Humphreys, do. 

— Humphreys, do. 

— Smyth, do. 

— J. Fruen, do. 

— T. Wylie, do. 

— Fuller . . . . 

— Davis, Gardener . 
Turner, Esq. . . . 
Mr. J. Amos, Gardener 

— A. Stewart . . . 
The Rev. H. Liveing . 
Mr. Wm. Seaher . . 

- — Becket .... 

— Williams . . . 
— - B. Silvers . . . 



Petersham 

Kent House, Knightsbridge 

Teversham 

Castle Gardens,Kilkenny,Irel. 
Ditto, ditto 
Ditto, ditto 
Nursery, Kilkenny, Ireland 

Chiswick 

Richmond, Surrey 
Ham House, Surrey . 
Ham Common, Surrey . 
Petersham, Surrey . 
Sussex House, Hammersmith 
28, St. JamesVstreet 



Chadwell, near Grays, Essex 
Grosvenor-place . 
Redbridge, Hants . . 



, Cambridgeshire . . 
. Normanstone, Suffolk 

Broseley, Salop . . 

Gorleston, Suffolk . . 




/ 



particulars* of a ffiatsz 

OF 

CULTIVATING THE CUCUMBER 

IN 

MILLS'S IMPROVED PIT, 

HEATED WITH BURBIDGE AND HEALY'S BOILER AND TANKS. 
WITH A DESCRIPTIVE PLATE. 



Many subscribers to the first edition of my work 
on the Cultivation of Cucumbers and Melons, haying- 
found it inconvenient to procure fermenting material, 
and having expressed a wish to have the pit so con- 
structed as to be heated by hot water ; I have, in 
accordance with that wish, had one of my improved pits 
arranged as to be so heated, and have the satisfaction 
to find it answer every expectation I had formed of it, 
having cut Cucumbers 24 inches long from plants that 
had been only twenty days planted therein. The fruit 
was exhibited at the July show, in Chiswick Gardens. 
The improved pit, as will be seen by the accompanying- 
plate, intended to be heated by fermenting material, can 
be easily altered so as to be heated by hot water, at 
a very small expense, should any of the subscribers feel 



XIV MODE OF CULTIVATING 

disposed to do so. Allow me to add, that where manure 
is plentiful, cucumbers and melons can be grown quite 
as good by the dung system as by hot water ; and where 
a quantity of manure is required for the use of the 
kitchen garden, it is a good method of preparing it 
for that purpose, as also for the growth of mushrooms. 
The hot water system is by far the cleanest, and much 
less labour is required in using it than by the dung 
system. The heat can also be regulated to a greater 
degree of exactness, especially when strong winds, with 
rain, prevail, as the fermentation of dung is much 
affected thereby ; still, when the linings are sunk as 
advised in my book, a heat sufficiently regular for their 
well doing can be maintained by proper management and 
attention. 

All that the gardener or amateur requires of a forcing 
apparatus, is that by which he can have at his command 
a sufficiency of top and bottom heat, with moisture. 
The great desideratum is to have heat where it is 
required. (There can be nothing worse than an excess 
of bottom heat without a corresponding top heat, and 
vice versa}) And to have such an arrangement is by no 
means difficult. The water, in my opinion, should 
never be required to be in a boiling state for the obtain- 
ment of the required temperature ; and this great point 



THE CUCUMBER. XV 

is to be obtained by a good arrangement of the tank 
system. I have long held the opinion that hot water, 
judiciously applied, would be equal to fermenting 
material : and it is doubtless the want of a proper 
application, where it is not. The quantity of heat for 
a short period is not of so much importance as the 
quality of that heat, as, if impure, few plants will live 
m it ; but if sweet, and neither too arid or humid, 
plants generally will luxuriate in it. 

The annexed plan of Mills's improved pit, heated by 
Burbidge and Healy's boiler and tanks, will be found 
to answer every expectation that can be formed of it. 
As in it the heat is regularly diffused, every part of it is 
heated by the method above described, that is, neither 
too dry or the reverse. It is well adapted for the 
propagation and cultivation of fruits or flowers — the 
two essential elements of cultivation, heat and moisture, 
being completely under the control of the cultivator. 

The directions for performing all other operations in 
their culture, will be the same in every respect as those 
given in my book for the pit heated by fermenting 
material. The pit has been seen by one of the most 
scientific men of the day, and it is pronounced by him 
to be the ne phis ultra of pit building. 

It is very easy of management, in consequence of the 



Xvi MODE OF CULTIVATING THE CUCUMBER. 

very superior arrangement of the furnace door, damper, 
ifec, &c. The best fuel, at least that which answers 
exceedingly well, is three parts coke and one part Welsh 
coal ; these mixed, the fire will not require looking to 
more than once in eight hours, if properly managed, 
viz , the combustion allowed to go on slowly. The 
boiler should be of ample dimensions, and the quantity 
of tanks should be such as not to require the water 
to boil. 



A 



B 

p Z3 □ □ mp—J ZZJ^ZZ 




Reference to Plate . 



A. Nine inchwall erasing Bung Linings. 

B. Cavity for Dung Luvjigs. 

C . live/ courses of four vnch work wRgexn holes. 
I) . Hoi? our Chamber 2 'is inches. 

E . Bnckcn£dg&. 
Y. Bottom cfPil. 



G Rafter. 

H Trellvs on which U trawv the, Plajtte . 
I . Mould forFlounbs to grow in, . 
J Filled wilh large wood. 
RK . Ground levels . 



ON THE CULTIVATION OF 

THE 

CUCUMBER. 



CHAPTER I. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER UNDER HAND- 
GLASSES. 

The first consideration is to procure seed 
suited to open air growth, as there are several 
sorts that will not come to perfection, in ordi- 
nary seasons, under hand-glasses. There are 
other kinds very productive when propagated in 
this way ; two of which I shall notice on account 
of having used them myself. These are the 
Old Southgate and the Gherkin ; the former of 
which should be sown on the 15th of April, in a 
hot-bed ; and the latter may be successfully 
raised under a hand-glass, in a bed prepared in 



2 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



a suitable place in the garden, about the loth 
of May. Both these cucumbers are cultivated 
for pickling. 

Before the seeds are sown let them be put 
into a basin of water for about two hours, to 
test their worth, Those that are good will sink 
to the bottom ; but the bad and defective seeds 
will float on the surface. Sow as many of the 
approved seeds as will supply your wants, one 
plant to a hand-glass being better than more ; 
but taking care to have a few plants to spare 
rather than run short of the number required. 
Twenty seeds may be sown in a thirty-tw r o size 
pot, if requisite ; that is, in a pot nine inches in 
diameter and nine inches deep ; and when the 
seeds are sown, let the pot be placed in a heat 
of from 50° to 60° (Fahrenheit) which will be 
sufficient ; as plants raised in gentle heat will 
come up stronger, than if grown in a higher 
temperature, and they will be better fitted for 
out-door purposes. 

The day the seeds are sown, prepare a bed for 



THE CUCUMBER UNDER HAND- GLASSES. 8 

a hand-glass, which will cover ten plants ; or 
two beds, if you have twenty plants ; and so on 
in proportion, according to the number re- 
quired. These beds are the out-door seed-beds? 
for the plants to be grown in previous to their 
removal to the fruiting bed, which is to be pre- 
pared for their reception as soon as they are fit 
for it. 

The out- door seed-bed is to be made on the sur- 
face of hard ground, commencing with a layer, 
an inch thick, of half-decayed rich manure ; the 
layer to extend one inch beyond the hand-glass 
every way. Over the manure put two inches of 
good rich soil ; turfy loam well chopped and heath 
mould, in equal proportions, are the best. When 
the bed is finished, put on the hand-glass, and 
keep it close, covering it every night with hay 
six inches thick, and over all a mat ; as these 
coverings will retain the heat imparted to the 
bed during the day by the sun, through the 
hand-glass. As soon as the seed-leaves of the 
plants in the hot-bed are expanded, they will be 

b2 



4 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



fit to transplant into this bed ; which is to be 
done by turning the earth and plants together 
out of the pot, care being taken to retain every 
root, if possible, without injury. 

The bed will take ten plants, set at propor- 
tionate distances from each other, so that the 
hand-glass may cover them properly ; should 
the soil be deemed too dry, a little water may 
be given from a fine-rosed watering-pot as soon 
as planted, although with caution; bearing in 
mind, that the dependence is on the heat of the 
sun and covering, there being no bottom heat. 
Give air freely during sunshine, whereby the 
plants will grow strong, and become possessed of 
powerful stems. Should the season be wet, it 
will be necessary to stir the surface of the soil 
in the bed between the plants occasionally, and 
to add a small quantity of dry soil thereto after 
so doing. 

With proper attention, the plants will be fit 
to stop in about fourteen days after they have 
been planted out into the seed-bed ; and this 



THE CUCUMBER UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 5 

is done by taking off the leading shoot one joint 
above the seed-leaves, which will cause them to 
break afterwards much stronger than by any 
other mode of stopping. Should more than one 
hand-glass be used, the beds must be kept six 
inches apart to admit of proper drainage. 

The fruiting-bed should be prepared in the fol- 
lowing manner, and placed in the most sheltered 
part of the kitchen-garden. Dig a trench about 
two feet deep, (if the soil be dry, and will admit 
of your so doing,) three feet wide, and of suffi- 
cient length to allow each plant four feet. Let 
it be filled up well with fermented horse-dung, 
tan, or leaves, to the height of two feet six 
inches, and upon this foundation lay about 
eighteen inches of good soil, such as recom- 
mended for the previous bed, (see p. 3). When 
the mould and glasses have been on a few days, 
and the bed has become warm, take up the 
plants from the seed-bed, by forcing the trans- 
planter under the dung, down to the hard ground, 
and with your hands part the plants from each 



6 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



other, as the mould and the manure, in which 
they have grown, will be full of roots. Separate 
each plant with its proportionate quantity of 
soil, taking care not to injure the roots ; then 
convey the plants carefully to the fruiting-bed, 
and plant them singly, as previously recom- 
mended, four feet distant from each other. 
Should the soil be dry give a little w 7 ater, and if 
the nights are cold, cover with a mat only, till 
the plants begin to grow ; which they will do 
rapidly when their roots partake of the warmth 
of their new habitation, aided by the now in- 
creased heat of the sun. Let them be sheltered 
from the strong winds as much as possible; 
which I have always carefully done by planting 
double rows of beans on the south side, and the 
like of tall peas, on the back of the bed. Hav- 
ing got the plants well planted and sheltered, 
the next consideration is the giving of air and 
water ; the management of which must be left 
to the judgment of the person attending them, 
as it is not possible to lay down unerring rules 



THE CUCUMBER UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 7 

for guidance in these particulars — further, than 
that extremes are to be avoided ; giving a little 
water and often, and air whenever it is possible 
to do so. 

The cucumber makes great progress in the 
open air in close calm days, especially when 
thunder and rain are prevalent ; clearly evi- 
dencing thereby that it delights in a moist and 
warm atmosphere. 

Pruning and dressing are matters of the 
utmost importance to the well-doing of the 
plants. Stop them, as before directed (see 
p. 5), at the joint above the seed-leaves. They 
will generally make, from that method of stop- 
ping, three shoots ; one of which is to be 
stopped again at the second joint, which will 
cause it to break afresh; thus giving four 
runners, the number required, to be trained 
towards the four corners of the hand-glass; 
which must be raised by degrees as the shoots 
advance, first a little on the south side, and 
soon afterwards all round. These shoots are to 



s 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



be trained outwards, under the corners till 
they reach within a foot of the outer edge of the 
bed, and then stopped. After this they will again 
break, and throw out lateral shoots, which will 
soon extend, as they should be permitted to do, 
to the outside of the bed, and will produce fruit 
in abundance. After a while, however, these 
laterals will multiply so rapidly, that they 
must be thinned ; but it is better never to allow 
them to become thick, from daily attention and 
constant stopping. This operation ought, inva- 
riably, to be performed with the finger and 
thumb ; because w 7 hen cut with an instrument 
the wound does not heal, and the lateral gene- 
rally dies back to the next joint ; which is not 
the case when the shoots are pruned or stopped 
by hand* 

When the laterals are thinned, three or 
four should be left on each of the four leading 
shoots adverted to, and the others should be 
taken off close to the main stem out of which 
they grow; you will then have tw r elve or sixteen 



THE CUCUMBER UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 9 

runners bearing fruit on each plant, of various 
ages, and producing as many fruit as the plant 
is able to support. Do not let the plant extend 
beyond its bounds of four feet, it being neces- 
sary that its vigour should be thrown into the 
fruit, and not wasted in useless vine and un- 
fruitfulness, to say nothing of the quality of the 
fruit, which can only be fine under proper 
management. 

The Gherkins, or short cucumbers, recom- 
mended to be sown on the 15th of May,, are to 
be treated as those under hand-glasses, except 
that when they are planted out, no glasses are 
used to cover them. 

The mode of planting the Gherkins is as 
follows : — As soon as the seed-leaves are ex- 
panded, let the plants be set in rows, two feet 
being allowed between each plant, and four feet 
between the rows. Care must be taken to keep 
the plants thin, and, above all, sheltered from 
strong winds ; and they should be watered 
slightly, but often, according to the weather, 



10 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER, &C, 

Should the nights be cold, as frequently happens 
at this time of year, set a large garden-pot 
reversed over them ; and do so, likewise, when 
the sun is very hot in the middle of the day, till 
the plants are well established . 



11 



CHAPTER II. 

ON THE CULTIVATION OF CUCUMBERS ON COMMON 
DUNG BEDS "WITH ORDINARY FRAMES. 

The success of cucumbers grown in hot-bed 
frames, depends greatly on well preparing the 
dung, before making it into a bed ; for if the 
dung be not properly prepared, the air of the 
bed will be impure, which is greatly prejudicial 
to the growth of so tender an exotic as the 
cucumber. It is evident that this preparation 
must take place before the bed is formed, as 
afterwards it cannot be disturbed ; and unless 
the manure has been properly prepared, it will, 
when formed into a bed, ferment to w r hat is 
termed a burning heat, and it will afterwards 
become dry and mouldy, to w 7 ithin a few inches 
of its surface, from which a noxious vapour will 
arise, to the certain destruction of the plants, in 



12 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

conjunction with the injury they will experience 
from the excessive heat. 

Previous to the horse manure being made 
into a bed, let it be thrown into a heap : and as 
soon as the vapour rises, and the whole mass has 
become well heated, let it be turned, taking 
care that every portion be well separated and 
shaken during the operation, otherwise the 
fermentation will not be regular. When the 
dung has been turned over and well shaken, the 
heap must be left till it a^rain becomes hot. 
which it will do in a few days, when the opera- 
tion of turning and shaking must be repeated : 
I have it turned once a week for a period 
of about eight weeks, before the expiration of 
which it cannot become quite sweet, especially 
if fresh when the working of it commenced. I 
wish this to be particularly attended to. as. in a 
communication made by me to the Horticultural 
Society of London. I named six weeks as being 
sufficient, in my opinion, for the preparation of 
dung for cucumber beds : but further expe- 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



13 



rience has convinced me that the period of eight 
weeks is better. 

Should the dung be taken from old linings 
which had been previously worked, it will an- 
swer the purpose without further preparation, 
provided it retains sufficient strength to pro- 
duce fermentation when made into a bed ; other- 
wise it will not become sweet. 

This seed-bed should be three feet high at the 
back, and two feet six inches in front ; and when 
the lights are put on, eight or ten days should 
be allowed for the bed to sweeten before the 
seeds are sown ; during which time the surface 
of the bed should be forked over every other 
day, about a foot deep ; and should it appear 
dry, as much water should be given as will make 
it moderately wet. Air must be admitted by 
raising the lights at the back with a wooden 
wedge, according to the quantity found neces- 
sary to be given, to admit the steam to pass off 
freely. 

In order to prove whether or not the bed be 



14 OX THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

sweet, shut the lights down close for three or four 
hours ; then take a lighted candle in a lantern 
push down one of the lights, and put the candle 
and lantern into the frame, and if the candle 
continue to burn, the bed will be in a fit state to 
receive the plants or seed. 

As to soil it is well known that cucumbers 
will grow in any soil, if it be moderately light 
and rich, and supported by proper heat and 
moisture, in the summer or spring months : 
but in winter I have found the purer the soil 
the better. 

In the year 1811, I used the turf or peat ob- 
tained from Wanstead Flats, in Essex, which 
contained a great quantity of white sand. This 
turf was chopped with a spade moderately small 
but not sifted : and in this the plants were 
grown without the admixture of any other 
soil, The plants thus treated proved as fine 
as I have ever had them since : and I cut fruit 
from them, in perfection, in the first week in 
February. The frames were raised in June to 



OX COMMON DUNG BEDS 



15 



inure the plants to the open air ; and at the 
end of that month the lights and frames were 
taken away to cover melons, (which had been 
propagated under hand-glasses). After this 
the cucumber plants were trained over the top 
of the linings, and continued to produce abun- 
dantly till October, which is ample proof that 
the soil was what they liked. 

Peat-soil may be objected to as not being 
sufficiently rich : but when placed on sweet fer- 
menting dung, the roots will help themselves to 
food when the plants require it. and are swelling 
off fruit. I have tried numerous experiments 
with soils, variously mixed, from the year 1811 
to the present time ; and I am perfectly satis- 
fied that peat alone is best, and I am now 
(January. 1841) using it on dung beds. 

Peat, however, varies greatly in quality ; and 
that which I prefer is found lying on a sub- 
stratum of gravel, and not more than three or 
four inches thick. It neither requires prepara- 
tion, nor to be kept before using ; but it may 



16 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

be set to work immediately on obtaining it, 
which is my method of proceeding. Some may 
ask why, in 1818, I recommended a mixture of 
leaf mould with the peat, when, in 1811 I found 
it answer so well without ? My reply is, that, 
like many others, I was not satisfied with doing 
well, but wished to do better ; and I thought 
that enriching the peat with vegetable mould 
would improve it. Peat-earth alone has, how- 
ever, unquestionably obtained the mastery with 
me over every other soil for the cucumber on 
dung beds in winter forcing. 

Let the seed be proved as before directed, 
(see p. 2), and then sown, according to the 
number of plants required, on Michaelmas Day, 
the 29th of September, if for early fruit. Nine 
seeds may be sown in a wide-mouthed thirty-two 
size pot, or one nine inches in diameter, and 
nine inches deep : and let them be placed round 
the pot near the outside. The earth should be 
peat, finely sifted, and a lump of the same soil 
should be placed at the bottom of the pot for 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 17 

drainage. Let the seeds be covered half an 
inch, and the whole pressed moderately firm. 
The pot must then be plunged about half its 
depth into the dung bed ; and if a little sweet 
tan has been laid on the surface of the bed for 
the pots to be plunged in, so much the better. 
In four or five days the plants "will appear above 
the earth in the pot, and then, they should have 
plenty of air during the day, and a little all 
night : from 60° to 70° of heat will be sufficient, 
without sun, and during sunshine from 75° to 
80°. When the plants are clearly above the 
earth, let the pot be set on the surface of the 
bed, as the heat there will then be enough for 
their roots. A little lining will now be neces- 
sary round the bed. Some half-decayed ma- 
nure, damaged hay, or anything else that will 
ferment a little, but not too much, should now 
be supplied, so as to draw a moderate heat 
round the frame, and it should be raised about 
two inches above the level of the bed. This 
lining will be sufficient to dry the plants, and to 



IS ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

keep up a sufficient internal temperature to 
admit of air being given regularly. The plants 
should remain in the seed pot till their stems 
are a little hardened , and the third leaf dis- 
cernible ; after which they will bear potting off 
singly into fresh pots, which should be forty- 
eights, which are three inches in diameter and 
four inches deep : the pots, if not new, must be 
well washed, or the plants will not turn out pro- 
perly when they are to be transplanted ; and 
the earth will adhere to their sides, to the great 
injury of the roots, Let the soil to be used in 
transplanting be moderately fine, but not sifted, 
and put a piece of turf, as before recommended, 
(see p. 16), at the bottom of each pot for drain- 
age. The seed-leaves of the plants should be a 
little above the top of the pots, and the earth 
should be within an inch of the top, in order to 
allow of a little more being added, so as to cover 
the roots when they show themselves on the 
surface. 

The best time for potting off is between three 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 19 

and four o'clock in the afternoon ; as after that 
time the plants are not likely to be exposed to so 
much light as to cause them to flag. They will 
do well without air for one night after trans- 
planting. Let the top of the plants, when 
they are returned to the bed, be within six 
or eight inches of the glass ; and as they 
increase in height lower the bed, so as to keep 
them at all times about the same distance. 
Water as may seem requisite ; there being little 
danger, however, of giving too much to peat- 
earth, as it will only retain a moderate supply. 

If the season be dull and wet, a little must be 
added to the width and height of the lining, so 
as to keep the heat from 65° to 75° ; when this 
is the case, the plants can always be dried once 
in the day, which should be accomplished, if 
possible ; but a fine moisture is to be desired 
upon them in the morning, as it is a sign of 
health. When the third leaf gets perfectly de- 
veloped, a leading shoot will rise out of its stem, 
which, as soon as it is clearly formed, should be 

c 2 



20 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

pinched off; its removal will give strength to 
the plant, and will cause it to throw out fresh 
shoots from the base of the seed-leaves. These 
shoots are allowed to grow until they are two 
joints in length, when they must be stopped by 
being pinched off with the finger and thumb to 
one joint. 

When the pots are filled with roots, the earth 
in which they grow will become matted together 
so as to form a ball ; and it will then be neces- 
sary to repot the plants into thirty-two sized 
pots, which are six inches in diameter and six 
inches deep, as they will then require more room. 
These pots* as before mentioned, must be new, 
or if not so, they must be washed clean and 
dried ; and the same soil and drainage must be 
used in transplanting as on the former occasion. 
As turf only is used, there will then be no trou- 
ble or danger of breaking the roots when they 
are removed from the pots into the fruiting bed. 
If the plants are perfectly right and well esta- 
blished, the whole of the earth in which they 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



21 



have grown will be filled with white-looking 
roots, and will present a fine healthy appearance. 

Let each plant have three good shoots or 
breaks, stopping them alternately, as before re- 
commended, at every joint. The shoots must 
be stopped alternately, as, if all the three were 
stopped at the same time, the growth and pro- 
gress of the plant would be unnecessarily checked 
and injured. On this account you should never 
stop a second leader or shoot till you see a break 
coming forward on the one first stopped. 

The next consideration is the description of 
frame suitable to winter use ; the making of a 
bed for the plants to fruit. The one I shall 
recommend (although any the grower may 
possess can be applied), should be four feet 
wide by twelve feet long, with three lights ; and 
it must be two feet deep at the back, and one foot 
six inches in front. It should be made of good 
inch and a-half yellow deal, and so put together 
as to be proof against the entrance of steam ; 
and the lights should be well glazed with narrow 



22 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

laps, and well puttied wherever the squares do 
not lie close. If the squares are large they will 
be preferable, inasmuch as they will admit 
more light, which is important during the 
winter months. 

Having previously given instructions as to the 
preparation of the dung for the seed-bed in p. 12, 
I need not repeat them. The rules there laid 
down for the seed-bed must be followed in the 
case of the frui ting-bed. 

A situation well sheltered from wind is impor- 
tant ; as well as a position where the greatest 
quantum of sun can be obtained. Should the 
soil be dry, and if it will admit of the bed and 
linings being sunk two or three feet under the 
surface, it will be greatly advantageous ; as the 
manure will ferment much more regularly when 
protected from the winds, and the frames being 
thus reduced in height, will be the more easily 
managed, as the interior of the bed can be 
reached without the assistance of steps, or a 
ladder. Should the ground require draining, I 



OX COMMON DUNG BEDS. 23 

Mould recommend its being done, in order to 
secure the advantages pointed out as* arising 
from sinking the bed, 

If my suggestion as to the size of the frame 
be adopted, the excavation for the bed must be 
fifteen feet six inches long by eight feet wide ; 
and in order to make it complete, a nine-inch 
wail should be built all round to keep up the 
soil, which will also assist greatly in regulating 
the heat of the bed by keeping the manure from 
coming in contact with the cold earth. The ex- 
cavation is made large, because the bed should 
be three inches wider than the frame ; and there 
should be an additional space of eighteen inches 
between the bed and the wall for linings, 
which will be required of considerable thickness 
for a frame of four feet. Do not let the walls 
inclosing the excavated space be higher than the 
surface of the surrounding ground, in order that 
the linings may be more conveniently turned. 

Commence the erection of the bed by laying 
on the ground, nine inches or a foot thick, brush- 



24 OX THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

wood or the loppings of trees, four feet six inches 
wide, and twelve feet six inches long : on the 
wood lay a little long litter to keep the dung 
from falling into it. as this would stop the 
drainage and prevent the bottom heat from work- 
ing under the bed. Upon the litter place your 
manure, carefully shaking it as you proceed, and 
keeping the surface regular, by beating it down 
with a fork as you advance, but do not tread it. 
The manure should be four or five feet high at 
the back, independently of the wood, and six 
inches lower in front. When the bed is finished, 
put on the frame, and keep the lights care- 
fully closed till the heat rises; then give air. 
in order that the rank steam may pass off : fork 
over the surface every other day, as directed for 
the seed-bed, and as the heat decreases give less 
air. If the dung with which the bed has been 
made has undergone the preparation directed, 
it will be fit to receive the plants in about four- 
teen days, Before transplanting, however, prove 
the sweetness of the manure with a candle and 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



25 



lantern, as pointed out for the seed-bed ; and if 
satisfied on this important point, from twelve to 
eighteen inches thick of peat-earth may be put 
on, to form the hillocks for the reception of the 
plants ; taking care that as little as possible of 
the surface of the bed be covered therewith, for 
the less heat there is confined under the mould, 
the less liable will the roots be to receive injury ; 
independently of the value of the sweet steam 
from the dung bed, which should be allowed to 
rise as much as possible round the plants— it 
being what they delight in, and also of the 
utmost importance in drying them. After the 
mould has been in the frame twenty-four hours, 
it will be sufficiently warm for the plants to be 
ridged out. To do this, make a hole in the top 
of each hillock, and place the pot containing the 
plant in it ; you will then be able to judge as to 
the proper distance it should be from the glass, 
which may vary from six to nine inches. Hav- 
ing determined this point, turn out of the pot, by- 
reversing it, the plant with its ball of earth 



26 OX THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

entire, and, holding the surface of the mould in 
one hand, and the pot with the other, gently tap 
the rim against the edge of the frame, when the 
plant will drop out without losing any portion of 
the earth or injuring the roots, if the pot was 
properly cleaned previous to its being planted. 
Then drop the plant into the hole in the hillock, 
and press the mould firmly round the ball of 
roots ; the earth of which should _be in the same 
state of moisture as that into which it is to be 
planted, otherwise it will not properly receive 
the watering, when poured upon it. as it will re- 
quire to be once or twice, from a pot without 
the rose, until the roots extend themselves into 
the fresh soil ; after which the whole of the hil- 
'ooks should be watered from a watering-pot 
with the rose on, whenever requisite, choosing a 
fine sunny morning for the watering, that the 
surface may become moderately dry by the 
afternoon. The seeds for these plants should be 
sown on the 29th September, and the plants 
should be ridged out on the 1st November. 



OX COMMON DUNG BEDS. 27 

The next consideration is a temporary lining 
of some prepared material, as directed for the 
seed-bed ; for the purpose of carrying off the 
excess of moisture, and keeping up the necessary 
heat within the frame : procure some stakes, 
and let one end be thrust^ into the bed horizon- 
tally, on a level with the wall or ground- 
level, while the other end rests on the wall 
surrounding the cavity ; then let a quantity of 
long litter be laid on the stakes to prevent the 
manure falling through them, and upon this 
build a lining till it reaches three or four inches 
above the surface of the bed, inside the frame, 
which will give sufficient heat for a time. The 
object of allowing two or three feet under the 
lining is to prevent a burning heat rising in the 
bed. A little air must be given during twenty 
hours out of the twenty-four, regulated as 
follows : — When you uncover the bed in the 
morning, the night air must be taken away ; as 
the external air coming in contact with the 
glass, will cause a depression of the internal 



28 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

heat, but the putting down the lights will suffi- 
ciently counteract its bad effects. Should the 
heat of the bed be low, and an increased warmth 
be requisite, let the unoccupied surface of the 
bed be forked over, about six or eight inches 
deep, either back or front ; and from this a fine 
steam will arise, which will be greatly beneficial 
to the plants ; and when air is afterwards given, 
it will materially assist in drying them ; which, 
as before remarked (see p. 19), is necessary to 
be done, if possible, during the day. In an 
hour or two after uncovering in the morning, 
let a little air be given, reference being had to 
the state of the weather; and again let it be 
gradually increased, after the lapse of a similar 
period, up to twelve o'clock in the day. About 
one, lower in part ; and at three or four, shut 
down till six, when you should again give air, 
the heat then should be about 70°, and the 
plants dry. At eight or nine, regulate for the 
night, according to the heat ; and so let it 
remain until the next morning, unless there 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



29 



should be a sudden change in the weather, as 
occurred on the night of the 12th of November 
last ; air was then given at nine o'clock when it 
was calm, and foggy, and the manure fermenting 
rapidly; but at three in the morning of the 
13th, it blew a gale, so the air was taken away, 
by shutting down the lights at that hour. 

From the hillocks of earth, in which the 
plants are planted, being small, the roots will 
fill every part of them in a week or ten days ; 
consequently about two inches of fresh earth 
must be added round them. As the roots show 
themselves, care is to be taken to keep up the 
heat, by additions to, and turning the linings. 
When the bed inside the frame becomes dry, 
from the heat of the linings, let it be sprinkled 
when the air is taken away in the evening ; and 
this will cause a fine steam to rise, greatly bene- 
ficial to the plants. For some years I conceived 
that the plants were assisted in growth and 
luxuriance by the steam which arose from the 
well-prepared manure of the bed, more than 



30 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

from the watering alone; but since I have 
grown them on the trellis, from which all steam 
is excluded, and where they grow with equal 
vigour, I have given up the opinion, as not 
founded on fact. 

If manure be not well prepared before it is 
made into a bed, it cannot be done afterwards ; 
nevertheless, I will describe the best method to 
be adopted to obviate the evils that will arise 
from want of preparation, as much as possible. 
It frequently happens that after every attention 
has been paid to the preparation of manure, in 
the opinion of those under whose management 
the preparation has been conducted, that the 
heat will be so great as to be injurious to the 
plants. In such cases the manure becomes 
mouldy and dry to within a few inches of its 
surface, destroying the roots as high as it rises 
in the earth. 

This description of heat has been perplexing 
to many ; inasmuch as at first the plants have 
gone on well, so long as the bed continued 

i 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



31 



moist, and the thermometer has indicated only 
a proper heat ; but it must be borne in mind, 
that it is not the quantity of heat that injures 
the plants, but the quality. It is a general, but 
mistaken impression, that if a bed appears dry 
and white near the surface, it is attributable to 
too great a bottom heat ; but such is not always 
the case, for it often happens that the destruc- 
tive heat is contained within a few inches of the 
top of the bed ; and, consequently, that it may 
generally be corrected by removing the dung on 
the immediate surface, till you come to where it 
is dry and looking mouldy. When this is the 
case, fork the dry mouldy part over, and give it 
as much water as will make it moderately moist ; 
then return the dung removed from the surface 
to its proper place. When the whole of the 
surface has been dealt with in this manner, add 
to the tops of the linings, with a view of coun- 
teracting any injurious effects that may arise to 
the plants from the watering w r hich the bed has 
been subjected to. A little additional covering 



32 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

may also be found necessary ; and it may pos- 
sibly be requisite to repeat the turning over 
within the frame, as well as the watering, in a 
day or two after the first. So long as the 
burning qualities continue, the plants will not do 
well ; it is necessary, therefore, to get rid of the 
evil as soon as possible in the way pointed out ; 
care being taken not to over-water, otherwise 
the bottom of the bed will become so much 
saturated with moisture as to be difficult to dry, 
and as would occasion it to throw up a sour 
and unwholesome steam, to the great injury of 
the plants. 

There are other cases in which the bed may 
not be sweet, from too great haste having been 
used in putting together the materials of which 
it has been formed ; but there may be no burn- 
ing qualities in it, and if not in a very bad state, 
the plants may be preserved in a heat of from 
65° to 75°, by giving air at all times, to allow the 
impurities to pass off freely. 

Too much bottom heat there cannot be, if it 

/ 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS, 



S3 



is moist and sweet, provided, indeed, it does not 
destroy the roots of the plants, which it will not 
readily do under the precautions pointed out, of 
not covering the surface with soil beyond the 
hillocks in which the plants grow. The heat of 
the dung will then escape freely ; and as the 
roots, in the hillocks adverted to, are above it, 
they will not easily be injured by pure heat. A 
stick thrust into the bed about twelve inches 
below the surface, and felt occasionally, w T ill be 
a good guide as to both heat and moisture. 

On the Linings of Cucumber-beds, and the Ma- 
nagement of them. — Linings should be turned over 
once in eight or ten days, to keep them in a regular 
state of fermentation, especially from November to 
February, inclusive. They should not, however, 
be all turned at once ; and if the back lining is 
turned, I will suppose, on the first or second, 
the frontage should be done on the fifth or 
sixth ; so that one-half is turned in five days. 
The ends will not require turning so often, pro- 
vided the heat keeps up to what is necessary, 

D 



34 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

according to the season. To dry the inside of 
the frame in December, January, and February, 
let the linings be four or five inches above the 
level of the surface of the bed, which will be 
sufficient ; in March and April they may be 
lowered in proportion to the increased power of 
the sun's heat. 

It may appear unnecessary to some persons 
to have the linings turned so often ; but I beg to 
remark, that on the lively heat emanating from 
them, the w ell-doing of the plants depends, 
especially when the heat of the bed begins to 
decline ; and in proportion as attention is 
bestowed on them, will be the success of the 
cultivator, If they are allowed to lie undis- 
turbed until they heat themselves dry, they 
become useless ; and the same effect is produced 
if they get overcharged with moisture. In both 
cases, if not rendered entirely useless, they will 
take so long a time to recover their heat, as to 
render them next to valueless; for where a 
warmth is requisite, in addition to that of the 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 35 

bed, the plants may be lost in the interval 
between the turning and re-rising of the heat. 
During the operation of turning, should there 
appear any part too much decayed, let it be 
removed, and its place filled with fresh linings, 
which should be put on the top of the old, in 
order to draw up the heat from it, and to keep 
up a good warmth round the frame ; besides, 
when the new linings are above the bed, there 
will be no danger of their rank steam getting to 
the plants. When the linings are again turned, 
the fresh manure applied, must continue at the 
top ; and, if necessary, some more must be added 
to it, in order that the right height may be 
preserved. It must, however, be observed that 
the new linings should never be allowed to mix 
with the old ones until they have become quite 
sweet ; for you must, on no account, allow 
rancid heat to be confined at the bottom of 
your linings. Attention to these directions 
must be continued until J une ? if it is desired to 
keep the plants in a healthy state ; and although 

d 2 



36 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

after the month of March the turnings need no ~ 
be quite so frequent, a good warmth must be 
kept up, or the plants will not swell off their 
fruit kindly. Indeed, at an advanced period of 
the season the roots will have got down into the 
dung, and so soon as that ceases to heat, they 
will perish from excess of moisture. 

Watering frequently, and in small quantities, 
as before observed, is the proper way to keep 
the plants in a sound state ; but in the winter 
months, from the moisture of the fermenting 
material, and the absence of solar heat, they 
will require but little from the water-pot. The 
surface of the bed, near the frame, will occa- 
sionally become dry from the heat of the linings 
passing upwards through it ; and when that 
occurs, let it be sprinkled with water through a 
fine-rosed pot, just before covering up ; and on 
fine mornings, about ten o'clock, give to the soil 
in which the plants are growing a little water 
in a tepid state. In November, December, and 
January, little water will be wanted, but in 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 37 

February, March, and April, more may be 
given ; always, however, in the morning, and 
only when there is a prospect of the plants 
becoming dry by covering-up time. It is a 
bad practice to water late in the afternoon, 
even in April, May, and J une, as the confined 
air, during the night, causes the damp to settle 
on the blossom of the fruit, when it destroys 
the pollen ; and fruit so injured will seldom swell 
freely. If the soil within the frame be mode- 
rately moist, it will be sufficient for the night 
without late waterings. Where a doubt is 
entertained on this point, give a little to the 
sides of the frame, and not to the plants. In 
dull w r eather never water the plants, but the 
mould only. 

Keeping the cucumber plants regularly 
stopped is of the utmost importance; and it 
should always be done, as previously noticed 
(see p. S), with the finger and thumb. The 
shoots should never be suffered to get into a 
crowded state, otherwise they will become weak 



38 ON THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

and unfruitful ; and their fruit, such as they will 
bear, will be of a small and inferior kind. Four 
good breaks or runners, stopped alternately, will 
be ample ; and two fruit are as many as a strong 
plant ought to swell at one time. 

Moulding up is another point which demands 
special attention, and which must be done, if 
the grower means to excel in his undertaking. 
As the roots show themselves through the 
hillocks of earth, let them be covered with an 
inch or two of the soil recommended ; placing 
more between the hillocks than elsewhere. 
This is clone in order that the hillocks may 
meet and form a ridge along the middle of the 
bed by the end of December ; but care should be 
taken to keep the sides clear of mould, to admit 
of the heat of the linings rising through them, 
to give that lively heat within the frame, which 
is usually called top-heat, and which is neces- 
sary for the plants, as it causes them to dry in 
the day, during the most unfavourable weather, 
and yet gives them steam-moisture by night. 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS, 39 

The whole of the bed should not be covered 
with earth until the end of March ; more par- 
ticularly the front of it, for a breadth of at 
least three or four inches. After that time, 
however, the whole may be moulded, as the 
heat of the sun will have sufficient power to 
dry up the evaporation therefrom, so as to pre- 
vent its becoming injurious. 

The covering at night is the next point to be 
dealt with. As soon as the heat of the bed de- 
clines to about 65°, and when all danger of over- 
heating is passed, use a single mat, and then a 
little hay, spreading it on the glass about one 
inch thick ; and commencing about the 20th 
November. This covering should be thickened 
as the cold increases ; and when the weather is 
very severe, double mats should be used. 

When the season turns, the days lengthen ; 
and as the sun's heat, during the day, aids in 
warming the bed within the frame, discontinue 
the covering by degrees down to a single mat, as 
at the commencement. Air must be given, 



40 OX THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

more or less, every night from October to the 
first or second week in March, as directed in a 
former part of this work, (see p. IS). 

Setting or impregnating the fruit has been 
practised by me early in the season ; and I 
believe it to be necessary, notwithstanding 
all that has been said against it. till about the 
1st of March. Some have attributed the 
irregular swelling of the fruit to this ope- 
ration : but this is a mistake, it being want 
of strength in the plants, or their carrying too 
many fruit at one time, which occasions the 
irregularity. In case of seed-fruit, it is abso- 
lutely necessary that care and attention should 
be bestowed upon this process, or there will be 
no seed. With a view to procure seed. I inva- 
riably raise plants specially for that purpose ; 
which should be grown as strong as possible, 
and not allowed to mature fruit till their roots 
extend to the outside of the frame : after which 
they will be able to swell off. and bring to per- 
fection two fruit each ; taking care that the 



ON COMMON DUNG BEDS. 



41 



handsomest be preserved, and that they be im- 
pregnated four or five times each, previous to 
the closing of the blossom. They should not be 
cut under six or eight weeks, then put into a 
cool room for a month, when they may be 
opened, the seed taken out, washed and dried : 
those only which sink to be retained. 

The plan of inlaying the vines of the cucum- 
ber practised by some, is now seldom resorted 
to by experienced growers, and is worse than 
useless; for as soon as the buried portions take 
root the original roots perish ; and, in the place 
of one good plant , there will be a dozen weak ones. 

When extraordinarily fine fruit is desired, 
allow the plant to mature one only ; but a suc- 
cession should be permitted, so that the after- 
fruit do not follow too closely on the first. By 
this plan the growth will be rapid, provided the 
plants are in health ; and the fruit be much 
better flavoured than if grown slowly. When 
long in swelling off, the fruit frequently becomes 
hard and bitter, and is therefore worthless. 



42 OX THE CULTURE OF THE CUCUMBER 

From 75° to 80° are as high as the plant will 
bear with advantage ; and in that temperature 
fruit vail grow faster than in a higher one ; the 
pruning and stopping being attended to as pre- 
viously laid down. 
j 

As to insects, they are seldom met with on 
plants in health and vigour, but excess of heat 
and drought will, doubtless, tend to propagate, 
if not to produce them ; and, where they exist, 
will cause them to multiply rapidly. Every 
care should therefore be taken to obviate the 
contending with such evils ; and a good depth 
of mould for the plants to grow in, frequent 
syringing with water, and slight shading, during 
a hot sun in the middle of the day. and keeping 
the internal heat of the bed as moist as possible, 
without actual injury to the plants, will prevent 
the appearance of the red spider and the 
thrip. Canker is engendered by too much 
wet and too little heat ; and the only remedy is 
a good heat, and getting the bed as dry as pos- 
sible for a time. 



OX COMMON DUNG BEDs, 



43 



Mildew is the result of too much water and 
damp, and the injurious vapours arising there- 
from engender it ; it is also produced by the 
materials of which the bed has been made, being 
put together in a foul state. Sulphur is the 
best remedy, as far as known, but it is a power- 
ful one. and requires caution in its use. The 
mode of applying it is, to let the affected parts 
of the plants be sprinkled with it, powdered as 
fine as possible ; and in most instances it will 
produce the desired effect, 



CHAPTER III. 

CULTIVATION OF THE CUCUMBER IN THE PINE-HOUSE 
IN THE WINTER. 

The cucumber and the pine are analogous as 
to the temperature in which they thrive, and 
where the latter is fruited, the former may be 
grown to advantage ; especially during the 
period of the year in which out-door culture 
would be attended with trouble, anxiety, and 
expense. 

Having already given instructions for raising 
plants in common beds (see p. 16), it is unne- 
cessary to give further directions here on that 
point. 

The description of cucumber I have found 
most productive thus cultivated, is that called 
" Kenyon's ; " by some known as the " Syon 
Free Bearer ; " it is prolific, and grows to about 
ten inches long ; it is of a pale green, with a 



CUCUMBERS IN THE PINE-HOUSE. 45 

glossy appearance, the flavour is good, and it 
eats crisp. But though I consider this the 
best, any kind will answer, except those that 
grow to a great length. When the cucumber 
is naturally long, it requires much light, as well 
as sun, to arrive at perfection. 

Sow the seeds for the plants intended to be 
grown in the pinery on the 10th August, and 
they will be ready to put into the fruit-bearing 
boxes on the 10th September, which boxes 
should be two feet three inches long by one foot 
three inches wide, and one foot three inches 
deep, made of inch-thick deal, well pitched over 
the joints on the inside, and painted on the out- 
side. They should have six holes in the bottom 
of each, half-an-inch in diameter, to allow of 
drainage : these holes should be covered with a 
piece of pot, and about two inches of turfy-peat 
or light loam. And as the space will be small 
for the roots to work in, the compost should 
be rich, consisting of one-half of well-rotted 
dung, perfectly sweet, and. the other half peat- 



46 CUCUMBERS IN THE PINE-HOUSE. 

earth. When the boxes are filled to within 
two inches of the top, let them be placed on a 
shelf suspended by iron fastenings to the rafters, 
so that the plants may be eighteen inches below 
the glass, against the back-wall of the house, 
one in each box, and one box under each light. 
Water should be given when requisite : the time 
will not matter here, but if syringed every 
morning and evening it will be of advantage. 

In this situation they will progress rapidly, 
and continue to bear abundantly till February ; 
and frequently, under good management, till 
May. When the roots show themselves on the 
surface of the soil, let an inch of mould be put 
over them, and another wdienever after they re- 
quire it. Former instructions as to stopping 
and thinning to be attended to, and one fruit 
only should be allowed to be borne by each 
plant at a time ; by which means the plants will 
be preserved both in health and vigour — besides, 
the fruit will be of good flavour from quick 
growth. 



47 



CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER UPON AN IM- 
PROVED PIT SYSTEM, WHEREBY FRUIT MAY BE 
PRODUCED EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR WITH 
EASE AND CERTAINTY. 

By this system the earth neither gets too 
much heated, nor becomes so saturated with 
water as to produce injurious vapours ; it is sim- 
ple in its management, economical as to ferment- 
ing material, and much cheaper, in point of 
construction and expense of maintenance, than 
any other method ever yet presented to the 
public. 

In order to give a correct view of the structure, 
I will describe a pit in use on the premises from 
which I write : which will enable any one desir- 
ous of adopting the method, to construct one 
commensurate in extent with the demands upon 
the grower. And as a simple description will 



48 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

suffice to develop its particulars, without hav- 
ing recourse to drawings. I shall not burden the 
work with an additional cost for the ornamental, 
being satisfied with imparting that which is use- 
ful only. 

Where a pit is to be erected, it is of importance 
that it should be sunk two or three feet below 
the surface of the ground, as it will thus be more 
convenient for management, as well as better 
protected freni the weather, especially in winter. 
Excavate, therefore, as directed for the common 
pits, in accordance with the dimensions of the pit 
to be erected, following the particulars of that I 
am now about to describe. 

The pits at the Baroness de Rothschild's are 
six feet two inches wide, and twenty-nine feet 
six inches long, from outside to outside : the 
cavity which surrounds them for the deposit of 
the lining is one foot eleven inches back and 
front, and eighteen inches at the end-, making 
the excavation ten feet w T ide, and thirty-two feet 
six inches long. 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 49 

The dimensions for the pit and cavity having 
been correctly determined, the earth removed 
and proper drainage secured, where the soil is 
such as to require it, commence the brickwork 
for the pit within which the plants are to grow, 
by laying a foundation of one course, back and 
front, fourteen inches wide, but single brick, or 
four-inch work solid at each end from the bottom 
to the top, and nine-inch foundation, Let the 
south or front side be the first to be carried up 
by laying five courses in pigeon-hole fashion, 
commencing two-and-a-half inches from the out- 
side of the ground-course, and laying upon them 
six more courses solid of single brick. This will 
make twelve courses ; and when these are com- 
pleted, commence a brick-on-edge course inside 
them, resting two-and-a-half inches from the 
inner edge of the broad foundation brickwork, 
admitting, which the space will then do, of a 
chamber between them of two- and-a-half inches. 
Eight courses on edge solid, with the mortar 
used in setting, will bring the inner brickwork 

E 



50 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 



up even with the top of the twelve courses 
before adverted to. The whole must then be 
covered over by a course of headers ; that is, a 
course laid cross- ways, which will cover the four- 
inch wall, the cavity, and the brick-on-edge, 
thereby forming a chamber between them, from 
thence to the ground, for the reception of the 
heated air, as well as for giving stability to the 
work. Then continue three additional courses 
of four-inch solid, which will leave a projection 
of five inches on the inside of the pit for the 
trellis to rest on. The front or outside will then 
be sixteen courses high, or four feet. Having 
finished the front, let the back have five courses 
of pigeon-holes, and ten of four inches solid ; 
then of the brick-on-edge inside, to form the 
chamber as before — eleven courses, which will be 
one foot higher than the other side ; the whole 
must then be covered as before with headers, or 
cross- ways ; then four courses of single brick to 
finish, making in all twenty-one courses, or five 
feet three inches high. If the four-inch work 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 51 

and brick-on-edge be carried up together, it will 
be of advantage, as the whole may be steadied 
by the introduction of a few bricks across the 
air chamber. 

The* brickwork being completed, let the 
bearers upon which the lights will have to rest 
and traverse, be put on, and the space between 
them filled up with inch-thick tiles laid in cement, 
so as to arrive at the same thickness as the 
bearers. The tiles must be laid flush with the 
brickwork on the inside of the pit, and project 
one-and-a-half inch over the outer edge all 
round ; in order to throw off the water from the 
walls — the surface being rendered perfectly even 
by the cement, which is preferable to a coping 
of wood, as it is more durable, and as on it the 
lights will fit to a great nicety, if due care be 
taken in finishing-off the work. Some of the 
pits here are so constructed as to copings, as to 
be now in good condition, after having been in 
use for a period of thirty years. 

The pit of which I have previously given an 

e 2 



52 OX THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

outline, as being twenty-nine feet six inches 
long, has nine lights, and took about 2.700 
bricks to construct it, at a cost for bricks, 
labour, lime, sand, cement, Sec. of £7 13s. As 
to durability, it will last at least fifty years, or 
more ; thus clearly showing a great saving, as 
compared with frames, which decay rapidly, and 
constantly want repairs. 

In some situations the soil will not allow of an 
excavation without admitting water into it ; 
and when this is the case, a drain must be formed 
to carry it off. This is done by sloping the in- 
side of the pit from the back and front towards 
the middle the whole length, along which a drain 
is made with bricks, as follows : — two rows are 
laid flat, leaving a space between them of about 
four inches, these are covered with another 
course laid cross-ways, which must be carried 
out at the front corner of the pit, and under the 
cavity for the linings (which it drains as well as 
the pit), the whole excavation slightly inclining 
towards this point. Where much wet is appre- 



tN AN IMPROVED PII\ 53 

hended, a cesspool should be formed, at as short 
a distance as may be convenient, to receive the 
drainage, which can afterwards be carried from 
it, by a lower drain, to any other place where it 
may be turned to account. 

The preparation of the interior is to be care- 
fully attended to. First, by filling it to the height 
of one foot with any rough material, through 
which the heat received into the pit, from the 
linings, will pass freely : nothing can answer 
better for this purpose than large boughs of 
trees, laid lengthways of the structure to begin 
with, and smaller to finish — they should be 
placed across, or transversely, and cut to the 
exact width. Upon these lay a little long litter, 
from fresh dung, to prevent the soil which is to 
cover them from falling into and filling the 
interior, which would stop the circulation of air 
before adverted to ; besides, the want of proper 
precaution in this respect, would be followed by 
the falling away of the earth from the roots of 
the plants to their great injury and possible 



54 OX THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

destruction. Upon the litter should be laid 
some good turf, one to two inches thick, cut from 
an old pasture or common, in the same way as 
for grass plats ; this should be laid, grass 
downwards, as close as possible all over the 
litter. 

Next must be filled in the earth for the plants 
to grow in: and this must differ from that given 
as best for common beds — this system is indeed 
very dissimilar, there being wood, and no dung 
under the earth in the pit. A good rich soil to 
commence with, immediately over the turf, is 
therefore necessary ; and for this, cow-dung col- 
lected dry, in summer, mixed with that of sheep, 
if obtainable, and well prepared, is excellent. 
Let this compost lie exposed to the sun, chopped 
moderately small, and occasionally turned, 
When thus prepared, mix it with an equal 
quantity of oak, or any other leaves, that have 
been well fermented and rendered sweet, and 
if not too much decomposed the better ; but 
after fermentation they should be spread out 



N AN IMPROVED PIT. 



55 



thin in an open space where they can be fre- 
quently turned and moved about. 

These manures being properly prepared as 
pointed out, should be mixed in equal quantities ; 
and to eight barrows-full of this mixture, 
one of pure white sand, which is of use as a con- 
ductor of heat. Nine inches of this compost 
should be added to the turf, and raised two 
inches highest along the middle of the pit ; tread 
it lightly all over, and upon this lay a similar 
quantity of peat-earth to finish, such as recom- 
mended for dung-beds ; making in all eighteen 
inches. Should the cow-dung and leaves not be 
at hand, two parts of rotted horse-dung from an 
old hot-bed, must be its substitute, previously 
well exposed and turned in the air, under cover. 
When earthed, the middle should be the highest 
from end to end, in order to draw the water 
from the centre where the plants grow, to the 
sides where moisture is most required, and 
where the heat is greatest. The height in the 
middle, when completed, including the wood, 



56 OX THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

turf, &c, should be two feet six inches from 
the ground ; thus leaving a space of about 
a foot above in front between the trellis 
and the mould, and at the back two feet. 
The soil being raised in the centre to facilitate 
the escape of the heat from the sides into the 
pit, and to draw T off the water as previously 
remarked, it will be one foot, or rather more, 
under the trellis there. The space between the 
earth and glass will contain as much heated air 
as can possibly be required, however cold and 
severe the weather may be. I have used less 
depth of wood and soil, in order to have more 
room between the soil and the glass ; but found 
it caused too dry a heat at top, and that, in 
consequence, the pit was obliged to be continu- 
ally sprinkled with water, particularly the walls. 

The seed proving, time of sowing, pot treat- 
ment, soil, and seed-bed, have been explained 
in the previous chapters ; and the only point 
now 7 to be treated on is the raising of plants for 
the pit. These plants are not to be stopped, as 

■ 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 57 

for common dung-bed purposes, but allowed to 
grow upwards ; and as, when they get eight or 
ten inches high, they will require support, they 
must be trained to a small stick, of about 
eighteen inches in length, and tied loosely, in 
order that the stems may have room to swell 
without injury. The plants must be kept in the 
pots until they are eighteen or twenty inches 
high, which will be about six inches above the 
trellis ; w T hen they are to be finally planted out of 
the pots into the pit . Whilst in the seed or rear- 
ing bed, let them be kept thin to prevent their 
being drawn up w^eak. A lively heat, that is 
from 65° to 7o°, with plenty of air, will cause 
them to grow 7 strong and healthy. By plenty of 
air, it must be distinctly understood to mean 
that air shall be admitted to the plants for 
eighteen or twenty hours out of the twenty-four; 
and that it should always be given during the 
night, if not very stormy and high wind. Water 
should also be given when requisite, as the earth 
recommended demands more than any other 2 



58 



ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 



and cannot well be overcharged ; especially if a 
quantity of the turfy peat soil, without any other 
drainage, be placed at the bottom of each pot 
on the occasion of the second potting off. The 
plants should present a dewy moisture when the 
bed is uncovered in the morning, otherwise there 
will be something wrong; possibly too much 
top heat, which causes a dry husky appearance, 
especially so if short of bottom heat, or of water. 
Care should be taken to get the bed ready for 
the reception of the plants by the time their 
roots have filled the pots ; it being much more 
important to their well-doing than is generally 
imagined, that they should not remain in the 
pots so long as to occasion them to become 
much matted ; which would cause them to 
suffer greatly when planted out, as the greater 
portion of matted roots perish after they are 
transplanted. 

Transplanting is the next process in rotation ; 
that is, the putting of the plants into the pit 
where they are to grow and bear. Holes should 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 



59 



be made under the centre of each light one inch 
deeper and larger than the ball of earth in 
which each plant grows ; the stick to which the 
plant was trained being retained to prevent 
breakage, the pot should then be reversed, and 
the earth supported with one hand over the top, 
when on tapping its rim the ball will drop out 
without the loss of a single root or a particle of 
soil, if well-grown in the seed-bed. The plants 
being deposited in their intended position, one 
plant under a light, and the ball of roots buried 
about one inch below the surface, the soil being 
light and hollow will require to be pressed with 
the hand to close it firmly round the roots ; the 
earth of w 7 hich should be as nearly as possible in 
the same state of moisture as that of the pit, 
otherwise the waterings will not penetrate the 
ball of roots, but pass off to the earth in w T hich 
it is planted. — See the mode of planting out in 
dung beds. 

The trellis for the reception of the plants 
may be made with wire, set in a frame of one 



60 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

inch square wood, the size of each light, the wires 
to be five inches apart, and forming openings in 
squares of five inches, crossing each other in 
a sieve-fashion, or of laths three-quarters of an 
inch broad, and half-an-inch thick, fastened 
with small nails or tacks at each crossing ; 
either of which trellises must be well painted 
before being used. Laths are preferable on 
account of being flat to rest the vines upon ; 
and especially when the fruit hangs down 
through the openings of the trellis ; those of the 
size specified are necessary to admit of a man's 
arm passing through to cut fruit, or any other 
matter that may call for its introduction. 

Stopping.— When the plants are grown suffi- 
ciently high, the trellis must be introduced 
under each light, and the top of the plant 
brought through the middle of it, its ends rest- 
ing on the chamber walls, which, as stated under 
the proper head, (see p. 50,) project into the 
pit, five inches on each side. When the plant 
has arrived at three joints above it, remove two 

/ 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 



61 



with the finger and thumb, which will shortly 
afterwards cause it to throw out fresh shoots. 
When this is the case the top ones must be 
preserved, and again stopped, alternately ; and 
such as present themselves lower down the stem 
must be taken off. When those retained get 
sufficiently long, they must be tied down to the 
trellis with care, and after making two clear 
joints each, they must be stopped back to one, 
so that a single break only may be had from 
each ; by which the strength of the plants will 
be increased, following the instructions for 
stopping and thinning given for common frame 
working, (see p. 7,) taking care not to omit 
this portion of the duty for two days together, 
as well as to prevent the infliction of many 
wounds at one time by severe pruning^ a proceed- 
ing that would be highly injurious to the plants. 

Heat. — That necessary for bringing the cucum- 
ber to the greatest perfection, when bearing, is 
from 70° to 78° ; and growing from 65° to 70°. It 
being a native of a hot climate its structure is 



G2 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

adapted thereto — the mean temperature of the 
country in which it grows naturally being about 
72°. Failures in its forcing occur, in most in- 
stances, from the want of a well-regulated top and 
bottom heat. When the branches are in a heat of 
70° or 80° (Fahrenheit) their roots require quite 
as much ; and if they have 90°, the fruit upon 
them will swell much faster than in a lower tem- 
perature. Without heat at the roots, early 
cucumbers are not obtainable ; and if the heat 
be too low they will remain stationary; but if 
the heat be short at bottom, and too much at 
the top, they soon become diseased and unpro- 
ductive. Keep up therefore a good bottom heat, 
at all times, and let it be sweet and moist, 
ranging from 85° to 95°, with the top heat as 
before stated. 

Air. — This subject has been already treated 
of in the chapters on common frame culture, 
and the same observations will apply here. 
Fruit-bearing plants in pits as well as frames, 
should have air at night, during the coldest 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 



63 



weather ; and by this treatment they are kept 
healthy and of good colour. 

Watering must greatly depend on the quan- 
tum of heat within the pit: as if the heat be 
low, a very little water must suffice ; but if the 
heat be kept up to the degree recommended, a 
little water, and often, especially over the brick- 
work and air-chamber, will cause a beneficial 
steam to arise. Water should be given at least 
once in twenty-four hours on the heated air 
chambers ; and at three or four o'clock, if the 
plants are dry, when shutting down, till half-past 
five or six, when the covering up takes place : 
then air is again given for the night. 

If the plants present a humid appearance, 
withhold water ; if dry on uncovering, sprinkle 
the walls. After the middle of January more 
water must be given, as then the growth will be 
rapid. In May water should be given twice a 
day, about ten and three o'clock. Extremes 
should, however, be guarded against, and a 
sound discretion exercised to insure success. 



64 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER 

Covering the Pits at nighty and uncovering them 
in the morning. — This should not be done until 
it grows dark, light being essential to the well- 
doing of the plants ; and for the same reason, in 
the morning the covering should be taken off as 
early as possible. But though this is the general 
rule, reference must be had to the state of the 
weather : as when this is very severe, the beds 
should be covered in part at three o'clock, and 
uncovered at nine, following the instructions 
previously given as to the treatment of plants 
in the common frames, and the directions for 
shading, &c. 

The internal arrangements finished, the next 
considerations are the linings and their manage- 
ment ; and, as upon the heat of these, entirely 
depends the working of the pit system, too 
much attention cannot be given to them. The 
manure for the linings should be horse dung, or 
that and oak leaves, in equal quantities. When 
the materials for the linings are collected, the 
cavity round the pit must be filled with them, 



IN AN IMPROVED PIT. 65 

and the greater the heat, at commencement 
especially, the better, in order to dry the walk 
and the earth within the pit, there being no 
danger of over-heating by this method; and if 
the top heat should be greater than wanted, air 
proportioned to counteract it may be given. In 
four or five days the earth will be sufficiently 
warm for the reception of the plants ; but if 
they should not be in such a state of forward- 
ness, as to be fit to turn out, and too large to be 
accommodated in the rearing-bed, they should 
be put into the pit for a week or so, before they 
are removed out of the pots. The linings should 
be regularly turned and managed as to time, 
additions, and removals of exhausted portions, 
as directed for those round common frames (see 
p. 33) ; commencing at one corner of the pit by 
taking out as much dung as will allow the ope- 
ration to be begun ; the lining taken out being 
removed to the opposite point to fill up, where 
the turning will terminate, adding fresh mate- 
rials when necessary, and keeping the whole even 

F 



66 ON THE GROWTH OF THE CUCUMBER, &C. 

with the top, or curb, so that no portion of the 
brickwork may be exposed to the external air, 
especially in early forcing. 

Should the ground surrounding the cavity be 
such as will not stand without support, a nine- 
inch wall, or boards, must be constructed as 
high as the surface, to prevent its falling in. 



67 



CHAPTER V. 

ON THE GROWTH OF THE MELON UNDER HAND- 
GLASSES WITHOUT THE AID OF FERMENTING MA- 
TERIALS. 

The melon plant may be successfully grown 
and fruited under this system ; for I have long 
cultivated it in this manner, and have produced 
fruit of the finest description and flavour. 
About the first of May I prepare a bed upon the 
same principle as that laid down for raising cu- 
cumber plants under hand-glasses (see p. 3); dif- 
fering only in respect of soil, which, in this case, 
should be pure loam from the surface, chopped 
with a spade quite fine. The dung at the bot- 
tom will allow of the removal of the plants with 
less injury to their roots, than if they were 
grown on loam alone. 

The seed should be proved, sown, and raised 

f 2 



68 OX THE CULTURE OF THE MELON 



as recommended for cucumbers under hand- 
glasses ; and if new it will do equally well as if 
old. 

The melon requires rather more heat than 
the cucumber, but still the instructions for cover- 
ing apply here, and should be followed. If cold 
winds prevail in the day, the night covering 
of hay and mats should be put on the windward 
side, close to the glass, to shelter it ; especially 
as in this mode of growing, the plants are, in a 
great measure, dependent on the suns heat, the 
full benefit of which should be given. 

On hot and clear days give water in the 
morning when the soil becomes dry, as it should, 
at all times, be kept free from extremes. As 
soon as the sun ceases to shine on the hand- 
glass, let it be shut down close, to retain the 
heat, covering up an hour before the sun sets. 
Uncover in the morning as early as the sun 
reaches the glass, when the plants ought to pre- 
sent dew-drops on the edges of each leaf — the 
criterion of health— especially if the preceding 



UNDER HAND- GLASSES, 69 

day has been warm and dry. The plants thus 
grown will be stronger than if propagated under 
frames, and will be fit to transplant into the 
fruiting bed in three or four weeks. 

The system of stopping should be that of the 
cucumber : after which the plants will bear a 
strong heat without injury, that is, 80° or 90°, 
in the day, with air, which should be given on 
the sheltered side, when required to keep down 
the temperature to about 85° or 95°. Do not 
admit much at once, but by degrees, so that the 
change may be gradual ; sudden transitions being 
highly injurious to the melon. 

The successful culture of this excellent fruit 
greatly depends on the nature of the soil, which 
should be good loam, three or four inches thick, 
taken from the surface of a common, or an old 
pasture. It requires no preparation beyond 
chopping, and may be used quite fresh ; and 
there is nothing to equal it. 

The situation for the plants to grow and bear, 
after their removal from under the hand-glass. 



70 ON THE CULTURE OF THE MELON 

should be a south border or some well-sheltered 
spot. If the soil be good loam, it will require no 
further preparation than digging, and being laid 
out in width and length proportionate to the 
cucumber frame, which must be placed over the 
plants as soon as they get too large for the 
hand-glasses; raising the middle of the bed about 
eight inches higher than the sides, to prevent 
an excess of moisture lodging near the stems. 

Supposing that a frame of three lights is to 
be employed, (after its removal from the cucum- 
ber bed,) in which the plants are to be fruited, 
let three hand-glasses be put over the earth 
w T here they are to be planted, to w 7 arm the soil ; 
these should be covered at night in the same way 
as the seed-bed, and be so placed on its ridge, as 
the plants may be under the centre of each light 
when the frame and lights are put on. As 
soon as the bed is ready, take the plants up from 
the seed-bed, in the same way as recommended 
for cucumbers, and set four under each hand- 
glass, if the frame be five feet wide : otherwise 



UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 



71 



three will be sufficient. Plant them but little 
deeper than when in the seed-bed, as the nearer 
the roots are to the surface the better ; press 
the soil firmly to the roots, and water a little if 
requisite. Attend to the covering and uncover- 
ing as directed for the seed-bed. Keep them 
to one leader or shoot, and give them, for a 
while, but little air during sunshine. They 
will make rapid progress, and grow much 
stronger than if covered with frames and lights ; 
100° of heat may be given with the best results 
when the plants are well rooted. When they 
fill the hand-glasses to such an extent as to be no 
longer covered by them without injury, let the 
frame and lights be put over them so that the 
bed may have a fall from back to front of one 
foot ; take off the hand-glass and train the 
leaders towards the back and front, at equal 
distances. When they reach to within six or 
eight inches of the sides of the frame they 
must be stopped. After this, they will throw 
out a lateral at every leaf; retain two of 



72 ON THE CULTUEE OF THE MELON 

the strongest showing fruit* and when these 
have their fruit set and swelling, remove daily all 
the others as they show themselves. 

Should the sort of melon be large, or if 
extraordinary quality be desired, one fruit on a 
plant will be sufficient. Lay it, while growing, 
on a slate or tile, stalk upwards ; and this will 
make it grow much handsomer than if on its side. 
It should be shaded by a leaf whilst growing, 
but the leaf should not touch the fruit. When 
full-grown, which will be in about a month after 
it begins to swell, expose it to the sun. If the 
plants have been well attended to, they will send 
forth other laterals showing fruit, one of which 
can be allowed to remain without injury to the 
full-grown fruit ; the fruit of the lateral will ripen 
in five or six weeks after the first has been cut, 
and frequently be finer flavoured than the first. 

Watering. — Little water will be required be- 
yond sprinkling, which is necessary during the 
hot months, to keep the plants free from insects. 

About ten o'clock in the morning give as 

/ 



UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 73 

much water as will moisten the surface of the 
soil, from a pot with a rose, without wetting the 
leaves more than can be helped ; but discontinue 
watering a few days before the blossoms open, 
until after the fruit has swelled as large as a 
walnut, when it must again be resumed as 
before, and carried on two or three times a- week 
up to the period of the fruit ceasing to grow, 
which will be shown by the plants sending forth 
fresh laterals. Here again the watering must 
be suspended for the ripening of the fruit, which 
will be in about fourteen days from the time it 
finished growing. When ripe it will give out a 
fine perfume, and will crack round the feeder or 
stalk. Cut it in the morning, and let it be put 
in a cool place until wanted ; observing to cut 
it before it gets too ripe, or it will lose much of 
its fine flavour. The first crop removed, water 
as before, decreasing as the days decline, and 
leaning at all times to an arid or dry state. 
The less water given the higher will be the 
flavour of the fruit* 



74 OX THE CULTURE OF THE MELON 

The melons under frames require air, like 
cucumbers, eighteen or twenty hours out of the 
twenty-four ; give it, therefore, if but in small 
quantities ; and in order to be able to do so, 
cover accordingly until the heat reaches 70°. 
In recommending air to be given, I have acted 
on the supposition that the squares are close 
puttied, and that the plants have but little air 
when the lights are shut ; it being essential that 
the cultivator should have perfect control of 
this element. 

Shading is desirable and necessary during a 
hot sun -shine from about eleven until three, the 
heat in summer being more than plants under 
glass can bear without injury; and although 
shaded, the temperature may be kept up by 
regulating the air, as well as by not using too 
thick a covering. Branches of spruce-firs, a 
little straw or long litter, thinly spread, so as 
not to exclude the light too much, will answer. 
Proportionate to the attention bestowed on these 
minor points will be the success of the grower. 



UNDER 



HAND-GLASSES. 



75 



Covering at night and uncovering in the 
morning have already been touched upon ; but 
from the importance of covering* I must add. 
that there are but few nights in the year, when 
it may not be beneficial to do so, as neither the 
melon nor the cucumber will thrive properly, 
when the heat differs greatly during the night 
from that of the day, unless artificial means be 
adopted to insure the necessary evenness of the 
temperature, which can only be done by judi- 
cious covering. Cover, therefore, about an hour 
before sunset, and uncover about an hour after 
sunrise, reference being had to the state of the 
atmosphere. 



76 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE CULTURE OF THE MELON ON DUNG BEDS. 

The seed-bed for raising the plants should be 
formed in accordance with the instructions 
given for raising cucumbers, and sown on the 
20th of January in fine loam ; out of which they 
can be more readily parted and re-potted than 
if the soil were rough. If the heat of the seed- 
bed be properly maintained, and the plants duly 
attended to, they will be ready for removal out 
of the seed-pot, singly, about the 27th, into a 
forty-eight pot, or one of four inches in diameter 
and four inches deep ; the soil as before, with a 
lump at the bottom, and no other drainage ; the 
plants should be sunk low so as to bring the 
seed-leaves even with the top of the pots, which 
should be only half filled. As the roots show 



THE MELON ON DUNG BEDS. 77 

themselves on the surface, they must be covered 
with earth at intervals till the pot is filled. The 
fruiting-frame should be twelve feet long, five 
feet wide, and two feet deep at the back, and 
one foot six inches in front. 

The fruiting-bed must be the same as for 
cucumbers, prepared sufficiently early for their 
reception ; differing only as respects its centre, 
which should be a foot lower than the edges, to 
allow of the increased depth of soil necessary for 
the melon. The soil should be the surface of 
an old pasture, about three inches deep, and it 
may be used immediately, requiring no further 
preparation or mixture than that of being 
chopped to pieces, so that the lumps may not 
be larger than an egg. The hillocks should be 
so formed as to bring the tops of the plants 
within eight inches of the glass, when planted ; 
and they should be sufficiently large to admit 
of four each. When planted, the soil should 
be kept compact and pressed firmly with the 
hands, care being taken not to cover a greater 



78 ON THE CULTURE OF THE MELON 

portion of the surface of the bed with earth, than 
may be absolutely necessary on forming the hills. 

The bed must be lined and the heat kept up 
day and night from 70° to 80° ; the dung should 
be sweet below the frame, but fresh at the top 
in contact with the wood- work, where the greater 
heat is requisite. 

When the roots show themselves through the 
hills, cover them at intervals till a ridge of soil 
be formed from one end of the frame to the 
other ; the surface of the bed, back and front, 
being kept free from earth, in order to obtain a 
greater heat from the linings, as well as to 
insure the plants being dried at pleasure. 

Train a leader from each plant till it nearly 
reaches the sides and ends of the frame before 
it is stopped ; fork over the uncovered surface 
frequently with a hand-fork ; and sprinkle with 
water every evening, if dry, before covering up, 
which will give a moist heat during the night, 
when air must be given at each light, in order that 
the internal atmosphere may be kept pure. Stop 



IN COMMON DUNG BEDS. 79 

the laterals two joints beyond the fruit, and give 
no water to the hills until the melons swell as 
large as walnuts ; one only must be allowed on 
each plant, and no more fresh breaks should be 
permitted, from the setting of the fruit till it is 
full grown : when this is the case, another fruit 
may be allowed to set, so that only one fruit 
shall be swelling on the plant at a time. 

The first crop will be fit to cut about the 10th 
of May (if of a good Canteleupe sort) ; and if 
well grown it will weigh from 3 lbs. to b\ lbs. 

The second crop of one on a plant should be 
progressing from the time the first attained its 
growth to its being ripe. When the first crop 
is removed, let the frame be raised four inches at 
each corner, and the bed moulded up back and 
front ; and the lining kept so high as to dry the 
frame about an inch above the soil. The cover- 
ing must be continued, as also the air as before 
directed. Water whilst the fruit is swelling, 
from ten to eleven o'clock as occasion may 
require ; and it will be proper to shade during the 



80 ON THE CULTURE OF THE MELON, &C. 

heat of the day. This second crop will be ripe 
in June and J uly, and the fruit will weigh from 
two to four pounds each ; and a third crop of 
one fruit on a plant will be ripe in August, Sep- 
tember, and October, of two or three pounds 
each. Thus thirty-six melons, perfect in growth 
and flavour, may be had off twelve plants ; the 
latter bearings being the finest in respect of 
flavour. By this system the plants do not re- 
quire to be cut back, and consequently are not 
checked, as must be the case when so dealt with ; 
neither is the risk of their breaking afresh 
incurred. 

In case of its being desired to have fruit large, 
and of the finest possible flavour, quantity being 
a secondary consideration, one plant on a hill 
instead of four must suffice, and one fruit on a 
plant. 



/ 



81 



CHAPTER VII. 

GROWTH OF MELONS IN PITS, AND TRAINING THE 
PLANTS ON THE TRELLIS. 

This mode of fruiting the melon is believed to 
be entirely new ; and, what is much more im- 
portant, a great improvement in the mode of 
producing it, especially at an early period of the 
year. Thus the melon, like the cucumber, may 
be raised at a time when success by any other 
method must be doubtful, however watchful the 
cultivator may be in attending to its growth. 
The melon on a trellis may be propagated 
with certainty, from the ability possessed by the 
grower of giving the requisite heat and air at 
all times. 

The plants being raised above the soil, and 
suspended in a warm atmosphere, they do not 
suffer, as they do when lying on the earth, from 

G 



S2 CCLTUEE OF THU MELON 

damp and foul air : and a? the melon, to bo 
grown to perfection, should not receive a check 
from the expansion of the seed-leaves to matu- 
rity, the system by which this may be easily done 
is worthy attention. On the trellis plan the 
grower has so far a control over the elements, 
as to render his working operations simple and 
certain — not so on the dung-beds, where purity 
of air is hardly obtainable at an early period, 

Such a bed as that recommended for raising 
cucumber plants (see p. S) will do for the melon 
in every particular : and the seeds for the first 
crop should be sown on the 20th January, if it 
be desired to cut fruit in May, The treatment 
must be the same as recommended when growing 
plants for dung-beds, save that of stopping ; in 
lieu of which, train the leading shoot till it is 
ten inches high, which it will be about the 26th 
of February ; when the plant will be ready to 
put into the pit. and will there ripen fruit by the 
6th of May. with proper management, if of the 
early C.mteleupe kind. A week previous to the 



OX THE TRELLIS. 



83 



plants being ready to turn out of the pots, pre- 
pare the interior of the pit by following the in- 
structions under the head of cucumbers on the 
trellis (see p. oS) ; except as regards the earth, 
which, for melons, should be loam, the surface 
of an old pasture, chopped rather small, as 
directed for melons on dung-beds. 

With this earth, pure and unmixed, fill the 
pit from the turf upwards, to within one foot of 
the trellis in the front, and two on the back, and 
six inches in the middle ; being higher there 
than at the sides, to draw off the water from the 
stems of the plants. 

The surface should be lightly trodden ; and 
when finished, place a couple of sticks in it, 
about the centre, a foot deep, and draw them 
occasionally ; by which the temperature may be 
ascertained. When deemed sufficiently warm, 
the plants may be put out, two under each 
light, eighteen inches apart, lengthways of the 
pit ; after which put on the trellis ; and if the 
plants pass through it two joints, stop them, 

g 2 



84 CULTURE OF THE MELON 

otherwise they must be allosved to grow until 
they do attain that height and then be stopped. 
They will afterwards break and throw out 
laterals ; the two uppermost of which, on each 
plant, must be retained, and led to within six 
inches of the back and front of the walls of the 
pit, where they must be stopped alternately, 
after an interval of three days, to prevent their 
growth being checked. From these a supply 
of runners will be had, which must be care- 
fully attended to daily, as to stopping and 
thinning, until the fruit is fairly set ; which, 
from the arid atmosphere of the pit, it will 
much more freely do than in ordinary beds ; 
and it will advance afterwards with great 
rapidity, to the delight and admiration of the 
cultivator. 

Do not allow the fruit to set on all the plants 
at the same time, but at intervals of a fortnight 
or so, according to the demand, in order not to 
have them ripen too near each other. If a suc- 
cession of crops be desirable, one fruit only on a 



/: 



ON THE TRELLIS. S5 

plant should be permitted, till it has done grow- 
ing; and then another, and so on. as directed 
for common beds. Pits do not require so much 
watering as ordinary structures do, on account 
of the earth being shaded by the foliage of the 
plants resting on the trellis ; but the walls 
and air chambers, back and front, should be 
sprinkled night and morning, when the fruit is 
swelling, from the steam of which the plants 
will be greatly benefited, and their roots moist- 
ened near the brickwork, there being no fear 
of over-watering here from the method of 
drainage. 

Air should be given as for cucumbers, twenty 
hours out of the twenty-four ; and the melon in 
the pit will then be cultivated in an atmosphere 
in which it delights — one indeed analogous to that 
of its native soil, and attainable only by this me- 
thod. The evening watering of the front chain-- 
ber, before covering up, will pass off in steam at 
the back, so soon as the lights are raised for the 
night air ; thus imparting a dewy moisture to 



86 CULTURE OF THE MELON, &C. 

the foliage closely resembling that of nature, 
and greatly surpassing every other plan of 
watering one of the most tender of exotics. 

The plants should be slightly shaded during 
a strong sun* 



87 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ON THE GROWTH OF ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus will thrive in any moderately light 
soil if well manured, but that which, from long 
experience, has been found most congenial to its 
propagation is a fine sandy loam, three to four 
feet deep, resting on a dry sub-soil. 

In November prepare as much ground as 
may be necessary for the reception of the 
quantity intended to be grown, commencing by 
first laying on it nine inches thick of good ma- 
nure. Then trench the ground three spades 
deep, mixing the manure with the soil to that 
depth. 

In December and J anuary the whole must be 
turned over in dry weather ; and in February 
thrown up into ridges one foot deep and two 
wide. In March the ridges must be turned, 



88 ON THE GROWTH OF ASPARAGUS. 

and in April levelled down to the same position 
as they were before turning, when they will be 
fit to receive the asparagus roots, which should 
be two years old ; the ground being first lightly 
trodden over, and formed into beds three feet 
wide, with alleys of three feet between them. 

In these beds plant two rows of roots in 
April, eighteen inches apart, and eighteen 
inches between each, by making rows or drills 
about three inches deep ; the roots should be 
carefully parted and laid in them, one-half to 
the right hand, and the other to the left, taking 
care to keep the crowns upright. When planted, 
level the surface neatly with a rake. Keep the 
beds free from weeds during the summer ; and in 
November following cover them over with about 
four inches of the mould from the alleys. In 
March fork over the surface four inches deep, 
and in the succeeding November add another 
four inches from the alleys ; and in the subse- 
quent March they should be forked over eight 
or nine inches deep, and so on until the roots 

/ 



OX THE GROWTH OF ASPARAGUS. 89 

have been planted three years, at the end of 
which time they will bear for the table, and the 
beds will last twenty years or more, but the 
heads should not be cut after the middle of 
June. In November the haulm should be taken 
off, and the instructions for earthing and fork- 
ing should be followed as previously given. 



90 



CHAPTER IX. 

ON FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

The best method of forcing asparagus is 
in beds of three feet wide and three feet deep, 
of such a length as the grower may choose ; and 
if more than one bed, leave a space or trench of 
two feet wide and three deep between them. 

Presuming, therefore, that two beds are to be 
formed for the purpose of being forced, excavate 
fourteen feet ten inches wide and three feet deep 
of the approved length, and having cleared away 
the earth, build a nine-inch wall round the out- 
side of the excavation up to the surface of the 
outer ground. The interior will then be thirteen 
feet four inches wide ; divide it into five com- 
partments, viz., three of two feet wide each in 
the clear, and two of three feet, which, with the 
four four-inch walls in pigeon-holes, running 



OX FORCING ASPARAGUS. 91 

from end to end, will occupy the space ; the top 
courses of the whole to be laid in cement, and 
finished with a curb of wood four inches wide, 
and three thick, laid on the four-inch brick- 
work. This is done in order to rest and fix 
upon it a span-roof of sixteen inches high to 
cover the beds ; to the top of which shutters of 
eight feet long are to be fixed, so as to fall down 
on each side of the span, to protect the beds 
from the weather ; and these shutters must be 
so constructed as to admit, by means of proper 
hinges, the turning over of either, from the one 
side to the other, in order to obtain access to 
the interior of the bed. 

The curb, framework, and shutters, should be 
so made as to be moved at pleasure from one 
bed to another ; as thus two sets of coverings 
may be rendered available to carry on forcing 
alternately in any number of beds. With proper 
care andattention to painting or tarring, these 
coverings will last many years. 

The next thing is preparing the beds for the 



i'2 OX POBGIXG ASPARAGUS. 

reception of the plants ; the soil should be com- 
posed of three-fourths of good light turfy loam, 
and one-fourth of well-rotted dung from old l-eds 
which is sweet ; to these add one-eighth part of 
sand, and let them be frequently turned and 
well mixed. The bed must be three feet wide 
and two feet four inches deep. When finished, 
tread it lightly, and, in April, plant two rows in 
each bed of two- years old plants, a foot from 
the edges, and eighteen indies from plant to 
plant Set them in drills as before advised, and 
level the ground, following the instructions 
alreidv £ivon a.s to future treatment. After 
planting, fill the trenches from end to end. to 
the level of the earth, with leaves, or sweetened 
litter, and water the beds slightly every now 
and then during the summer months. 

In the November following the setting, cut 
of? the haulm, and addr'rnr inches of g: : i sou to 
the surface, and more leaves to the linings in 
the cavities, to keep them up to the proper 
height; the whole to be always kept clean 



ON FORCING ASPARAGUS. 93 

during the summer. In the second November 
treat them as before ; fork over the beds, and 
add another four inches of soil, which will bring 
them to the required height of three feet, 
keeping the trenches filled with leaves. Let 
them remain in this state for the summer, and 
in December, two years and nine months from 
the setting, they will be fit to force, and will 
last many years in excellent bearing. 

About four weeks before the heads are 
required, put on the frame-work and shutters, 
take out the leaves from the cavities, and fill 
them immediately with well-prepared dung, or 
dung and leaves, which should be quite sweet. 
These linings will require turning every ten 
days, or a fortnight at most, to keep them 
fermenting regularly : fresh litter must be 
added to the tops as they sink, which will need 
no preparation. 

When the bearing is over, and the covers of 
the beds removed, do not disturb the linings, as 
the roots will extend themselves from the beds 



94 



ON FORCING ASPARAGUS, 



into them to their great benefit through the 
pigeon-holes of the walls. 

When the succeeding season arrives, the 
linings must be taken away and replaced by 
fresh litter as before ; for at that time the buds 
of the plants will be formed, and cutting of the 
roots will not matter. In all other respects 
follow the open- ground treatment. 

The great advantage of this system over the 
common, is the preservation of the plants ; for 
thus treated they will continue to bear abund- 
antly many years, but where taken up for frames 
they are destroyed after the first forcing, and a 
large space of ground as well as labour is requi- 
site to supply the annual demand. 

When all danger of injury to the plants from 
frost is past, the curbs, roof, and shutters, should 
be removed and put by until another year ; and 
if the shutters are wanted for other beds, the 
beds first forced should be covered over with 
hoops, mats, and litter, to keep off the frost at 
night, which would otherwise injure the plants. 



/ 



95 



CHAPTER X. 

FRAME FORCING OF ASPARAGUS. 

This plan of forcing is to be conducted under 
frames on slight hot-beds, eighteen inches or 
two feet thick, of half decayed manure and 
leaves, quite sweet and past violent fermenta- 
tion. On such a bed place about four inches 
thick of light mould, and when it has become 
warm take up the asparagus plants, cut off their 
roots to within five or six inches of the crowns 
or buds, and place them in rows on the earth, as 
close together as their roots will allow, without 
putting them on each other, the crowns being 
kept upright. When the frame is filled, cover 
the whole with from four to six inches of soil. 
The heat should be about 55°, and maintained 
by slight linings, care being taken not to burn 
the roots. An old bed that has been previously 



96 



FRAME FORCING OF ASPARAGUS. 



used for pines or other things will do well, more 
especially the improved pit, recommended for 
cucumbers, is excellent, and surpasses every 
other where the roots are taken up, as in that 
they cannot be over-heated. When the heads 
show themselves above the earth, give as much 
air as the weather will admit, this being essen- 
tial to produce colour and good flavour. With 
proper attention a bed of this description will 
last in cutting about three weeks, 



97 



CHAPTER XI. 

ON RAISING ASPARAGUS PLANTS. 

Prepare a piece of ground in the same way 
as recommended for beds to the extent required, 
on which sow the seeds on the 20th of March, 
in drills eighteen inches apart and two deep ; 
keep them thin, and the plants will be strong 
and fit to transplant in thirteen months ; but 
some prefer them two years old before removal. 
Soil should be added, as for other beds, in the 
autumn. 



H 



98 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE CULTIVATION OF SEA-KALE. 

The soil best suited to the growth of sea-kale 
is that recommended for asparagus, as well as 
the method of preparing, although it caiinot 
possibly be too rich for this vegetable. 

On the 25th February sow the seed in drills 
two inches deep and two feet six inches apart. 
When they have made two or three rough 
leaves, let them be thinned so as to be eighteen 
inches apart. Hoe the ground frequently 
when the plants are young; they will soon 
cover the ground, and will do for forcing the 
following autumn and winter, that is, in ten 
months from the time of sowing. They will 
be finer and better than two-year-old plants, 



THE CULTIVATION OF SEA-KALE. 99 

from having been grown to perfection without 
a check. 

There are a great variety of ways for forcing 
sea-kale. When the leaves die off in the autumn, 
let them be cleared away, and cover them with 
large garden pots reversed, the holes at the top 
being stopped with hay, and a little soil drawn 
round the rims to keep out the air and insects. 
Cover them with leaves or litter so as to obtain 
a gentle heat, the milder it is the finer will be 
the produce. If leaves, the upper coat should 
be long litter, to throw off wet and keep the 
heat regular during changes of weather. Cover- 
ing about the middle of October will insure sea- 
kale for the middle of December ; and where a 
succession is required, regulate the commencing 
of forcing accordingly ; the last succession 
will answer with pots only, provided the air be 
excluded. The finest I have ever seen was so 
treated ; the seeds sown in February and cut 
the May twelvemonth following. 

Another method is to take up the plants 
h 2 



100 THE CULTIVATION OF SEA-KALE. 



and force them in frames in the same manner 
as recommended for asparagus, but the heads 
will not be so fine by this plan ; independently 
of which, they will be destroyed after the first 
forcing. 



101 



CHAPTER XIII. 

ON THE DESTRUCTION OF WOOD-LICE. 

The destruction of these troublesome insects, 
which, in many instances, prove highly injurious 
to other plants, as well as that of the cucumber, 
has frequently been the subject of anxious in- 
quiry in public periodicals, as well as in works 
of this description. It i* therefore presumed, 
that an easy mode of extirpating them must be 
acceptable and valuable. 

Procure some bark from a dead tree of about 
nine inches or a foot in circumference, and a 
foot long. Previous to its removal divide it in 
the middle. When taken off put the pieces 
together, compressing the edges of the one to 
admit of its passing a little way within the other, 
in order that the upper should form a roof to 
the lower, and thus prevent the water from 



102 ON THE DESTRUCTION OF WOOD- LICE, 



entering the cavity within. Tie them at each 
end, and put them in the frame ; the trap rest- 
ing with the roof part upwards, so that the in- 
terior may always be dry. The wood-lice will 
soon find out this hiding-place, and may be de- 
stroyed at pleasure. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 



AIR for melons ..... 


74. 




Air, mode of giving ..... 




13 


Air, time for giving . . . . 28, 


4U, 0/, 


Do 


Asparagus, modes of growing 


o/, 


on 
yu 


Asparagus plants, to raise 




Q7 


Bed for improved pit system 






Bed for forcing asparagus 


. yu, 


yo 


Bitter cucumbers, cause of 




41 


Bottom heat ... . . 


33, 


62 


Boxes for fruiting cucumbers 




45 






42 


Compost for cucumbers .... 


. 45, 


54 


Covering cucumbers at night 


39, 


64 


Covering melons ..... 


. 68, 


75 


Coverings for forcing asparagus 




91 


Cucumbers in the pine-house 




44 


Cucumbers on dung-beds, in hot-bed frames 




11 


Cucumbers on the improved pit system 




47 


Cucumbers under hand-glasses 




1 


Cutting asparagus ..... 




89 


Cutting melons , . 


. 73, 


79 



104 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Drainage of pots 16 

Draining pits 52 

Dung, mode of preparing far hot-bets . . . ,11 

Excavation for t!*e bed for frame cucumbers . 23 

Forcing asparagus .00 

Forcing sea-kale . 99 

Frame forcing of asparagus .95 

Frame for cucumbers . . . . . . . 21 

Fruiting-bed for cucumbes. out-door .... 5 

Fruiting-bed for frame cucumbers . . . . . 23 

Fruiting- bed for melons 7/ 

Fruiting melo:is 72 

Fruit of extraordinary slze : more of procuring . . 41 
• 

G; E'Kixs. time for sowing 9 

Hand-gla sss I. 67, 70 

Reat for asparagus . . . . . . - 95 

Heat for fruiting cucumber;: . . . . . 42, Gl 

Heat for melons CS. 71 

Heat for seedling frame cucumbers . . . .17 

Heat for seeds 2 

Heat fo " transplanted r-;cme-cu / '-u . bc-:s . . . 19 

Hillocks, acklmg earth to . . . . . . 29 

Hillocks, u?ode of forming on hot-beds . . .25 

Hot-bed. mode of making . . . . . . . 24 

Hot-bed, mode of renovr.tr g 30 

Impregnating cucumbers i\ 

Inlaying the vines of eucurn'teN . . . . .41 

Insects in cu' umber bed 42 

Interior of the cucumber pit, mode oT preparing . . 53 



INDEX. 



105 



PAGE 

Laterals, thinning of 8 

Linings, materials for . . . . . . 17, 64 

Linings, mode of applying 27 

Linings of cucumber beds, management of . . 33, 65 

Melons grown on trellises, according to the improved pit 

system . ... 81 

Melons on dung-beds . . . . . . .76 

Melons, soil for . . ... . . 67, 69 

Melons under hand-glasses 67, 70 

Mildew . ..... 43 

Mouldiness in hot-beds, to cure 31 

Moulding up cucumber plants . . . . 38, 40 

Over watering, danger of . . . . . . 32 

Peat for cucumbers . . . . . . .14 

Pickling cucumbers . 1 

Pit for cucumbers on the improved system . . .48 

Planting asparagus 88, 92 

Planting cucumbers in the fruiting-bed under hand- 
glasses . . . 6 

Planting cucumbers in the hot-bed . . . .25 

Planting melons . . . . . . . . 77 

Potting-off frame cucumbers . . . . .18 

Pots, kind of, for transplanting 20 

Pots, mode of filling 16 

Preparation of asparagus beds 87 

Preparation of dung for a hot-bed . . ..13 
Preparation of the interior of the improved pit . . . 53 
Proving the sweetness of the bed 14 



Raising asparagus plants 
Ripening of melons 



97 
80 



106 



INDEX. 



Sea-kale . . . . . » 4 . . 98 

Seed-bed for frame cucumbers . . . . . 13 

Seed-bed for melons . . . . . 76 

Seed-bed for out-door cucumbers 3 

Seed cucumbers 40 

Seeds, mode of trying if good . . . . ,2 

Setting cucumbers . . 40 

Setting melons e . . . . . .84 

Shading melons 74, 86 

Sheltering cucumbers in the open air . . 6, 10 

Shoots, when to thin • . . . . . . 37 

Soil for frame cucumbers . . . . . .34 

Soil for melons 67, 69, 77 

Soil for out-door seed bed for cucumbers 3 

Soil for transplanting 18 

Sowing cucumber seeds for hand-glasses 2 

Sowing cucumber seeds in the pinery . . . . 45 

Sprinkling hot-beds with water 29 

Steam, use of to the plants in hot-beds . . . . 29 

Stopping cucumber plants .... 5, 20, 37 

Stopping cucumbers on the improved system . 60 

Stopping melons . . . . . . . 69, 79 

Stopping, mode of performing .... 8, 21 

Sweetness of hot-beds, mode of trying . . . .14 

Syon-free-bearer cucumber . . . . . . 44 

Temperature of hot-beds, how to ascertain . . 83 

Thinning the lateral shoots of cucumbers . . . . 8 

Top-heat . . . . . . . 38, 58 

Training cucumber plants according to the improved pit 

system 57, 61 

Training encumbers under hand-glasses . . .7 

Training melons ...... 72, 73 

Training melons on trellises ...... 83 



/ 



INDEX. * 107 

PAGE 

Transplanting cucumbers into the improved pits . . 58 
Transplanting frame cucumbers . . . . .19 

Transplanting out-door cucumbers . . . . . 5 

Trap for wood-lice . . . . . . .101 

Trellis for melons . . . . . . . . 82 

Trellis for training cucumbers ..... 59 

Watering cucumbers in hot-beds ... 36, 63 

Watering melons . 68, 72. 79, 85 

Watering on the improved pit system . . 56 

Watering out-door seed-bed ....... 4 

Water, when necessary . ■ . . . . . 63 

Winter cucumbers ....... 44 

Wood-lice 101 



THE END. 



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